The Insider's Guide to Shanghai
What to do, see, and eat in China's largest city.
Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!
Who
Heading to China’s most populous metropolis? Take tips from five Shanghai locals: Iris Yang, a culinary artist; Oscar Wang, a multidisciplinary artist and founder of the creative studio Open Work; womenswear designer Susan Fang; and Jiro Hsu and Michael Janczewski, the husband-and-wife duo behind Bastard, a neo-Chinese restaurant and wine bar.
What
What to Bring
Along with the usual travel necessities, like comfortable shoes (Shanghai is very walkable) and adapters, Yang suggests downloading a VPN, which will allow you to access Google, Instagram, and other sites and apps blocked by China’s Great Firewall.
Fang urges first-time visitors to bring two empty suitcases. Fill them with niche snacks and clothes from buzzy local designers, but don’t miss out on Chinese tech items, especially home cleaning gadgets, like robot vacuums and high-tech mops.
What to Keep in Mind
China operates within its own ecosystem of apps. Yang encourages visitors to download Dianping for local restaurant rankings and reviews. Other must-haves include Didi, for calling cars, and WeChat, which is used for messaging. “WeChat also has a lot of internal translation communication tools, and is the best way to make friends and connect with people in China,” says Fang. Trains and flights within the country can be booked easily on it, too.
It’s best to download these apps ahead of your trip. “Get your Alipay ready, and set up your account,” says Wang. “People don’t really carry cash at all here, so be prepared before you come.”
Where
Where to Stay
Fang, Yang, and Hsu recommend the Puli Hotel, one of the first luxury hotels in the country to bridge traditional Chinese design with contemporary architecture. 
Similarly luxurious is The Peninsula, which boasts a tremendous view of the Bund, a waterfront stretch lined with historic buildings. 
For more accessible prices, Yang suggests the Langham Xintiandi, which is both stylish and central, and the URBN Hotel, a boutique player with an eco-friendly edge. The Alila is one of the city’s newest spots and also happens to house one of Wang’s sculptures in its courtyard. “It’s centrally located in the city’s busy commercial district of Jing’an,” he says. “The idea here was to draw upon Chinese philosophy and the five elements to bring a sense of calm amidst the bustle.”
Where to Start the Day
“Shanghai is a coffee city with 8,000 coffee shops—you can find a coffee on literally every corner,” says Janczewski. His favorite is Manual Espresso Bar, which has an industrial garage feel. Plus, there’s a great Shandong dumpling shop across the street. “That, together with coffee, is all you need to get you going.” 
If you’re into unconventional pairings, Wang recommends O.P.S Café, which has a short and seasonal menu of specialty drinks. “It can be something like Ethiopian espresso mixed with Ecuador dark chocolate or honeydew melon.”
Shanghai is also full of excellent tea houses. Yang’s favorites include the historic Huxinting Teahouse and Chunfeng Songyue Lou.
Where to Eat
Shanghainese cuisine—known for its sweet sauces, noodles, and dumplings—should be a priority. For xiao long bao (steamed soup dumplings), Yang recommends Shan Shan Xiao Long, which is beloved for its pork dumplings and pot stickers. Janczewski opts for Lai Lai Xiao Long Bao, which is especially crowded during the much-anticipated hairy crab season.
You can’t leave Shanghai without eating noodles. Janczewski heads to Yi Gui He, a local staple, for scallion oil noodles, while Hsu recommends Lao Long Tang, a no-frills joint. It’s popular, so expect a line.
You could get by on street food alone, but the city is full of institutions for sit-down Shanghainese fare. Locals love Lao Ji Shi, a.k.a Jessie’s. Wang’s favorites include Maodou Ayi and Fu 1039, which is housed in a mansion in the French Concession. For a unique meal out, consider Xiao Jin Chu (小金处), a justifiably hard-to-get reservation—it’s literally a single table per night—run by a husband and wife team in their apartment.
Guizhou cuisine, which is known for its sharp and piquant flavours, is all the rage in Shanghai. Both Janczewski and Fang recommend Maolago, which specializes in sour and spicy fish hot pot. (Janczewski and Hsu’s own trendy spot, Bastard, is also beloved by locals and visitors, but they were too polite to mention it.)
If you’re after a deep dive into the local food scene, Janczewski encourages reaching out to Christopher Saint Cavish, a Shanghai-based American food writer, to organize a food tour, which can be tailored to your preferences.
Where to Shop
For local finds, Yang’s favorite streets to peruse include Hengshan Road and Taojiang Road. Both she and Fang recommend Anfu Road, which is known not only for its buzzy boutiques but also the stylish, street style-ready and social media savvy clientele they attract.
If you’re keen to discover up-and-coming Chinese fashion labels, Hsu suggests Labelhood, which runs a number of boutiques across the city. Her other go-tos include Aentos for scents, Bananafish for books, and the Friday morning market above the Lanling Flowers and Birds Market for vintage finds. Meanwhile, Wang heads to iYouth Studio and the concept store XC273 for art and design objects, as well as to Dirty Yard for an eclectic fashion curation. “When I’m searching for new furniture pieces, I go to Maison Wave, which has a great collection of 20th century designs.”
Janczewski encourages visitors to download the Taobao app and immerse themselves in the world of Chinese e-commerce. “China’s mail system is nothing but efficient, and very often things ordered from even the furthest places will arrive in Shanghai within two days,” he says. “Be warned, it can get pretty addictive.”
Where to Look at Art
According to Yang, the Modern Art Museum (MAM), West Bund Museum (WBM), Fotografiska Shanghai, and the Rockbund Art Museum aren’t to be missed. 
Plus, Wang says the Museum of Art Pudong (MAP) is worth visiting for Jean Nouvel’s architecture alone. Wang also points to Long Museum, the country’s largest private museum and a must for lovers of Chinese art. Consider a trip to Rong Zhai, a mansion and exhibition space restored by Prada and re-opened in 2017, almost a century after it was originally purchased by the Chinese industrialist Rong Zongjing.
Where to Unwind
China is witnessing a boom in bath house culture: Gen Z loves spending a day in spa complexes like New Star, where you can pop in and out of saunas and enjoy a variety of treatments for a relatively low price. Hsu and Yang also enjoy traditional Chinese medicine treatments at Yu He Tang, which has several outposts around the city. For massages, both Hsu and Wang head to Subconscious Day Spa.
Where to Get Some Fresh Air
If you’re keen for a bike ride or picnic, Yang suggests heading to Century Park. As a digestif, Fang enjoys walking down the West Bund (Xi An)—particularly late at night, once the sightseeing crowds have dispersed.
There are also many day trips near Shanghai, like Zhujiaojiao, a serene ancient water town on the city’s outskirts. Other popular day trips include Moganshan and Anji, both known for idyllic vistas straight out of a calligraphy painting.
Where to Have a Cocktail
Yang recommends Yin Yang, a stylish French Concession spot that pairs cocktails with street food, Women’s Drinking Club, which, as the name suggests, is women-only (and pet friendly), or Bar Rouge for rooftop views of the Bund. 
Meanwhile, Wang and Janczewski frequent Paal, Pony Up, and Bar Blanc for inventive mixology. For locals’ favorites, Wang advises stops at Dead Poet and Senator Saloon.
Where to Stay Up Late
For a more low-key evening, Janczewksi heads to Roam, a cozy space for dancing located in the attic of a restaurant.
For techno fans, Fang urges a trip to System, the trendiest techno club in the city. Launched by Chinese photographer Charles Guo, the space features impressive light installations and top tier DJs. Yang loves INS Playground, an infamous “tower” in a six-floor building that features multiple clubs: you can buy an all-access pass and hit all of them in one night.
If you don’t plan on heading home until the sun rises, Wang’s bar, HQ, stays open until the last customer leaves. “We’ve installed a stellar sound system so it can be relaxed or a dance party, depending on the night.”
When
Generally, our experts recommend visiting in the spring and fall, when the weather is mild.
Janczewski also encourages tourists to check for public holidays, or broader holiday seasons. In China, many businesses are closed during major holidays, and Shanghai—despite being the country’s most modern city—is no exception. Plus, “you’ve got to remember that China is a country of 1.4 billion people and most holiday tourism still happens within its borders, meaning five-star attractions like the Bund will be full of people,” he warns.
Why
In Shanghai, there’s something for everyone—whether you’re after traditional experiences or cheap street food. “It’s very liveable, very international, and bustling in [spaces like] technology, fashion, creativity, music, and food while keeping a sense of human warmth, culture and community,” says Fang. “People are very open minded to new ideas and want to experiment and innovate—it’s a very efficient and energetic city.”
