3 days in Zagreb: how to spend a weekend in Croatia’s capital
Featuring museums, green spaces and fabulous food, our three-day itinerary will show you the best of the Croatian capital.
Zagreb, Croatia’s underrated capital, contains multitudes.
Beyond its calm streets lies a buzzing nightlife. Its medieval charm mixes with modern (and sometimes totally bizarre) flair. And its food scene has nurtured a love for local tradition while continuing to evolve with a cosmopolitan edge.
I’ve been visiting Croatia for over 15 years – and while the coast gets all the love, Zagreb’s charm lies beneath the surface. It comes off as a quiet place at first glance – yet it’s packed with hidden gems, if you know where to look. A perfect weekend awaits.
When to arrive: Arrive Friday morning to give yourself enough time to settle in before rolling into the action. Attractions are open all year long, with each season bringing its own perks (summer is the city’s festival season; winter has some great Christmas markets).
How to get from the airport: There are several straightforward options to get between Zagreb’s main airport and the city center. Buses cost around €6 (US$6.30; tickets can be bought from the driver), while a taxi runs about €15–20 (US$15.75–21); Uber and Bolt are also available. Car rentals are also very easy and cheap if you plan on traveling outside the city (€24/US$25.20 per day).
Getting around town: For most visitors, a combination of walking, trams and buses is the best way to get around.
Where to stay: If you’re on a budget, try Swanky Dorms. Hotel Jägerhorn is a stylish boutique in the Old Town, while Esplanade Zagreb Hotel offers a five-star experience.
What to pack: A good pair of sneakers for exploring the city’s cobbled streets (and a hike on Sunday), plus something smart for dinner. Since evenings can get chilly, bring something warm too.Exception: The parser function of type "canto_diptych" is not defined. 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Friday
Morning: Check into the Esplanade for a bit of old-world glamor. Originally built in 1925 to host passengers traveling on the Orient Express, before being taken over by the Gestapo and Wermacht as their HQ during WWII, it has since become an A-lister hangout and is a great place to have a coffee before starting your day.
How to spend the day: Zagreb can be roughly split into two areas: Upper Town (the oldest part of the city and its historic heart) and Lower Town (its cultural and commercial hub). Head to Upper Town first via a quick ride on the funicular railway to begin your day of sightseeing. Don’t blink: the ride is over in under a minute, which is why it holds the title of the world’s shortest funicular. Yet more than just a ride, it’s a slice of Croatian history in motion, being one of the oldest methods of transport in Zagreb.
Walk Upper Town’s cobbled streets and admire the stunning 13th-century St Mark’s Church, whose strikingly colorful tiled roof features a mosaic of two coats of arms: one of the City of Zagreb and the other of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia. From there, head to Lotrščak Tower to take in the views of the city. Time your visit right to catch the daily Grič cannon blast at noon. Visit the city’s nearby Museum of Broken Relationships – the first of a number of unique museums you’ll experience over the weekend and one of my favorites. This ode to heartbreak shares personal stories and even more personal possessions about love and breakups.
On your way down to Lower Town, weave your way through the medieval Stone Gate, popular for its shrine to the Virgin Mary and often lit up with candles. If you have time, finish up with a visit to the Grič Tunnel, which was built in 1943 as a shelter for civilians during WWII, got reactivated during the Croatian War of Independence, and later hosted one of the country’s first underground raves in the 1990s. Today, it’s often used as an event space and displays a different light show every year during the city’s Advent festival (between November and January).
Dinner: Zagreb’s food scene is thriving at the moment, with chefs like Mario Mandarić (formerly of the UK’s The Fat Duck) returning home to redefine traditional flavors at his Michelin-starred restaurant Noel. He also recently opened Bistro 96, which mixes French classics with traditional Croatian dishes like plum dumplings, and chicken soup with wheat dumplings.
After dark: For something a little different, check out the Kino Tuškanac, a hidden art-house cinema that shows late-night indie and classic movies. Finish with a cocktail at Stay Swanky, which serves local craft beer and coffee by day and turns into a cocktail bar by evening, or Dezmen Mini Bar, with its menu of signature and classic cocktails.Exception: The parser function of type "canto_diptych" is not defined. 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Saturday
Morning: For breakfast on the move, swing by Korica bakery, which has a selection of tasty pastries and baked goods (if you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the indulgent sugar-crusted cruffins). Then head to Zagreb’s central Dolac Market (open 7am to 1pm) for a slice of local life. Located on an elevated square, this market has hosted traders since 1926 and is where many residents and local restaurants get their daily produce.
How to spend the day: Continue on to the brilliant Museum of Hangovers, where you’re welcomed with a “hair of the dog” shot to set you straight after those evening cocktails. Once revived, head to the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art, home to works by self-taught Croatian artists, then stretch your legs with a walk through Lenuci’s Horseshoe, a scenic route linking some of the city’s green spaces, from Zrinjevac Park to the Botanical Garden and the grand King Tomislav Sq.
Dinner: Book a table at Lanterna na Dolcu for an authentic Croatian dinner. Set in a three-century-old basement with a vaulted brick ceiling, this family-run restaurant buys its ingredients fresh every day from Dolac Market (which you’ll have visited in the morning). Start with a board of local Istrian ham and Pag cheese, then take your pick from any one of the delicious mains (they’re all excellent) – like the seafood-and-tomato risotto, or fuzi pasta with oodles of truffle, a Croatian classic. The owner is a knowledgeable sommelier, so will be able to pair your food with excellent regional wines. If wine isn't your thing, they also brew their own pilsner.
After dark: Zagreb is home to some great pubs serving up a selection of craft beers and pilsners. A couple of my favorites include Tolkien House, which has a whole raft on tap and (in true, quirky Zagreb style) is Lord of the Rings–themed. I also love the interiors of The Old Pharmacy, which has several vintage relics on the wall and photos from its days as a apothecary. If you’re looking for more, indie-rock fans might want to head to late-night bar/club SPUNK; if electronic music is more your vibe, Aquarius and Boogaloo nightclubs are local favorites.
Sunday
Morning: Grab a late breakfast at La Štruk, a small restaurant (open from 11am) dedicated to serving one thing: štrukli. This traditional dish is a type of dough that’s either baked or boiled, then served sweet or savory, usually filled with a ricotta-style cheese and topped with cream. It’s an indulgent way to start off the day.
How to spend the day: Walk off the hearty breakfast with a trip to Medvednica nature park, which has a network of protected (and well signposted) hiking trails. It’s also home to a centuries-old fortress, caves and tunnels to explore, and (in the winter months) popular ski runs, if you fancy hitting the slopes. Be sure to finish off your day at the top of Sljeme, the park’s highest peak, for stunning sunset views of the city. If you’ve rented a car, it’s a short drive away from the center (park at Bliznec). Trams and buses also run to the area.
Dinner: For your final dinner, book a table at Pod Zidom Bistro. Recommended by Michelin for the last six years, it serves up tasty dishes like beef croquettes and rabbit ragu lasagna. Its owners also pride themselves on their wine selection – so don’t leave without trying a glass (or two).
