Help with replacement shower wall on valve/spout side
I am remodeling my guest/hallway bathroom, and I've run into a bit of a conundrum, and I'm looking for advice, suggestions, etc. I'm replacing the original fiberglass one-piece shower/tub combo from the original construction (1988) with a Delta 500 shower/tub kit. The tub is installed, and I have dry-fit the back and right walls, so everything is in place to at least get the holes measured and cut for the valve and the tub spout. And that's where the problem lies. As you can see from the initial pictures (A and B), this is the current layout of the copper pipes, with the valve guard in place (plumber did all this). The blue painter's tape in A shows where the center of the tub overflow is, with the left side of that being in line with the center of the overflow. This is off-center because the two sides of the replacement kit are not the same width, with the left side being an inch or so wider than the right side, so the tub is slight "righter" than the original. The problem is how close the current bathroom's and the master bathroom's piping are to each other since they share a wall cavity (yellow circle, picture C). I can only have the current bathroom's pipe go back only so far, while allowing the new shower wall piece to be flush with the studs when that piece gets installed. You can also see here how far out the valve guard sticks out (yellow box), even with the 1x4 in place (the shower wall is nowhere near this thick). Picture D shows literally how close the pipe for the shower head is to the value for the shower in the master bathroom on the other side of the wall cavity. I don't have a lot of room to work with here (the pink string is tied to the shower head - temporarily attached at the top - to check plumb/vertical alignment). One thing I could potentially do is quite a hack in picture E, but I can attach (zip-tied here for testing) the pipe to the right of the master bathroom shower value to allow me to move it a little deeper into the wall cavity. But this option also causes problems. One of these is the vertical alignment of the cold water side from the valve in picture F (yellow box). Will this be a problem for the Sharkbite connectors? Also, please don't pay attention to that abomination sticking out here. Plumber had to jerry-rig that since he didn't have all the right parts necessary to do it in one run (not happy about this). Also not sure if this will potentially be affected by any vibration/rattling, etc. Even if this is a viable option in the end, what would be the proper way to do it other than the zip-tie? Picture G shows how much "closer" the valve guard is to the wall with the pipe zip-tied, but again, the 1x4 is a lot thicker than the shower wall. Picture H is essentially the same as G, but with a piece of cardboard instead. Still, a tad thicker than the actual shower wall. So that's basically it, and what I'm up against. I don't really know what to do. I've done pretty much all the work I can do in the bathroom without needing this wall piece in place, so I'm stuck until this is resolved. What I don't understand is how the original shower was able to co-exist but this new one doesn't seem to want to. What options do I have to get this resolved? Are there any? https://preview.redd.it/6yt1lnmk5j8f1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ae15fe27d74e69babd85905f247416edf93310f https://preview.redd.it/mh0qg1pl5j8f1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ace35f6d4014963a8bbcca9c32b66fa80a759271 https://preview.redd.it/jm5tyi0m5j8f1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8676103e383c2eb70507c35aa92893ba31e987f9 https://preview.redd.it/88caqobm5j8f1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42a08d82493c1d58af2287da85b5968c16ba4e9a https://preview.redd.it/ay6xjvmm5j8f1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=909aa5e25cfdec48376a456be91fb9b4ea7594af https://preview.redd.it/rztts3zm5j8f1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c6ad143edd5813e9e452bf5cb4ee8e43294e98b6 https://preview.redd.it/d9quqjan5j8f1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bca69c2c5083a59afb08d629ab750d2d53962acb https://preview.redd.it/7ziv62nn5j8f1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ff6478935ea09552db9e7608a1d1cf9a648ebe2 submitted by /u/DelphiDude [link] [comments]
| | I am remodeling my guest/hallway bathroom, and I've run into a bit of a conundrum, and I'm looking for advice, suggestions, etc. I'm replacing the original fiberglass one-piece shower/tub combo from the original construction (1988) with a Delta 500 shower/tub kit. The tub is installed, and I have dry-fit the back and right walls, so everything is in place to at least get the holes measured and cut for the valve and the tub spout. And that's where the problem lies. As you can see from the initial pictures (A and B), this is the current layout of the copper pipes, with the valve guard in place (plumber did all this). The blue painter's tape in A shows where the center of the tub overflow is, with the left side of that being in line with the center of the overflow. This is off-center because the two sides of the replacement kit are not the same width, with the left side being an inch or so wider than the right side, so the tub is slight "righter" than the original. The problem is how close the current bathroom's and the master bathroom's piping are to each other since they share a wall cavity (yellow circle, picture C). I can only have the current bathroom's pipe go back only so far, while allowing the new shower wall piece to be flush with the studs when that piece gets installed. You can also see here how far out the valve guard sticks out (yellow box), even with the 1x4 in place (the shower wall is nowhere near this thick). Picture D shows literally how close the pipe for the shower head is to the value for the shower in the master bathroom on the other side of the wall cavity. I don't have a lot of room to work with here (the pink string is tied to the shower head - temporarily attached at the top - to check plumb/vertical alignment). One thing I could potentially do is quite a hack in picture E, but I can attach (zip-tied here for testing) the pipe to the right of the master bathroom shower value to allow me to move it a little deeper into the wall cavity. But this option also causes problems. One of these is the vertical alignment of the cold water side from the valve in picture F (yellow box). Will this be a problem for the Sharkbite connectors? Also, please don't pay attention to that abomination sticking out here. Plumber had to jerry-rig that since he didn't have all the right parts necessary to do it in one run (not happy about this). Also not sure if this will potentially be affected by any vibration/rattling, etc. Even if this is a viable option in the end, what would be the proper way to do it other than the zip-tie? Picture G shows how much "closer" the valve guard is to the wall with the pipe zip-tied, but again, the 1x4 is a lot thicker than the shower wall. Picture H is essentially the same as G, but with a piece of cardboard instead. Still, a tad thicker than the actual shower wall. So that's basically it, and what I'm up against. I don't really know what to do. I've done pretty much all the work I can do in the bathroom without needing this wall piece in place, so I'm stuck until this is resolved. What I don't understand is how the original shower was able to co-exist but this new one doesn't seem to want to. What options do I have to get this resolved? Are there any? [link] [comments] |
