A first-time guide to Ladakh, India
Get to know this very scenic, very special and utterly unique piece of the Indian mosaic.
A short, spectacular flight over the ice-clad Himalaya from India’s sweltering northern plains – or a slow and scenic road trip up from the Himalayan foothills – lands you in the extraordinary former kingdom of Ladakh.
This spectacular region is effectively a high-altitude desert, where tectonic upheavals and extreme weather have sculpted massive mountain ranges into some of the rawest, wildest scenery on earth. The valleys here are strung with fast, clear mountain rivers and are dotted with villages of flat-roofed, Tibetan-style houses, and liberally scattered with structures of the Ladakhi people’s deep-rooted Buddhist faith. Gompas (monasteries) perch on rocky crags and are replete with richly colored murals and statues. Lines of bright prayer flags flutter in the winds. White-painted stupas and occasional gigantic Buddha statues appear along the sides of roads.
This backdrop makes for epic exploring, on foot, by car or motorcycle, or even rafting down a rapid river. Visits to gompas (maybe to witness the dramatic masked dances at a festival), palaces and fortresses show you the proud past and spiritual present of Ladakhi life. And abundant guesthouses and homestays bring you into contact with the welcoming inhabitants of this very scenic, special and unique piece of the Indian mosaic. 
When should I go to Ladakh?
Summer – late May to September – brings the warmest weather, with average daily highs around 20ºC (68°F) in the valleys. Ladakh lies north of the Great Himalayan Range, so while monsoon rains are drenching most of northern India in these months, things remain dry up here. June and July see the biggest tourist crowds. September, with the weather still pleasant, is an ideal month to visit.
Winter (November to March) is cold, with temperatures often veering between about -12ºC (10°F) and 0ºC (32°F) in the capital, Leh. But with far fewer tourists in these cold months, local life returns to something like it used to be in pre-tourism days.
Within Ladakh itself, roads stay open most of the time. Though roads up to the region from the lowlands may close seasonally, flights operate year-round. Traditional festivals take place in these months just as in others, and winter offers the best chances of sighting the elusive snow leopard (agencies in Leh offer expeditions).
How much time should I spend in Ladakh?
It’s possible to race around a few special destinations in a three-day road trip from Leh – perhaps Alchi and Thiksey monasteries in the Indus Valley, and the farther-flung districts of Nubra, with its deep river valleys, and/or Changthang, with its high-altitude lakes. But five days (or more) of exploring lets you appreciate the place better. Remember that you’ll need at least two days to acclimatize to the 3500m (11,483ft) altitude upon arrival, so factor that into any itinerary.
To explore Ladakh’s culture and landscapes in something like the depth they deserve, give yourself two or three weeks. You can visit Indus Valley villages such as Stok, Shey, Hemis, Phyang, Basgo and Lamayuru, with their atmospheric monasteries, forts and palaces; spend some days trekking; and tour out to beautiful Zanskar as well as Nubra and Changthang.
Is it easy to get to and around Ladakh?
Year-round flights hop over the Himalaya to Leh from Delhi, Chandigarh, Srinagar and Jammu. There’s also road access to Ladakh from Manali in Himachal Pradesh and from Srinagar in Kashmir. The roads from Manali cross 5000m (16,400ft) passes and are usually closed due to snow from about November to May. When they’re open, public transport is provided by buses, minibuses and shared taxis. The drive from Manali to Leh usually takes 10 to 14 hours (longer via bus). Manali to Padum in Zanskar takes around nine hours. On the 14-to-18-hour drive from Srinagar to Leh, the 3529m (11,580ft) Zoji La pass is sometimes closed by winter snows.
A great and popular way to travel to and around Ladakh is by motorcycle. Thousands of Royal Enfield bikes are available for rent in Leh, and more still in Manali. Main roads within Ladakh are nearly all paved or good-condition unpaved, with gas stations fairly numerous (though you should always keep tabs on where the next one lies). Cheap bus and shared taxi services fan out from Leh, but they’re largely infrequent. Most travelers with limited time hire taxis, which charge reasonable fixed rates for both short trips and multi-day excursions.
Top things to do in Ladakh
Visit as many gompas as you can
Ladakh’s many gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) form the atmospheric core of Ladakhi spiritual life. They’re also a highly picturesque feature of the landscape, jumbles of white cube-shaped buildings often tumbling over rocky crags. Populated by maroon-robed lamas (monks), most gompas contain several temples and shrines decked with highly colorful, sometimes enormous statues of Buddha and Tibetan Buddhist deities. Try to attend a gompa’s morning prayer session, when lamas assemble for an hour or two of deep-voiced chanting, bursts of clapping, clashing cymbals and thunderous trumpet blasts. One of the best-attended assemblies (by lamas and visitors alike), usually starting at 6am in summer, is at the huge, historic Thiksey Gompa, 18km (11¼ miles) from Leh.
Another special time to visit gompas is during their annual festivals, when locals crowd gompa courtyards to witness superbly costumed masked lamas performing dramatic chaam dances, which usually enact stories from Tibetan scripture or myth. Hemis Tsechu at the large and important Hemis Gompa, 42km (26 miles) from Leh, is among the most popular festivals, and takes place in June or July.
Explore fascinating Leh
Ladakh’s historic capital and only sizable town is fascinating. Take a walk through the labyrinthine lanes of the Old Town up to the 17th-century royal palace, which towers over the town center. If you have the energy, continue up even further to the two temples and fort crowning Namgyal Tsemo (Victory Peak) above.
Below, cafes and restaurants line relatively modern Main Market street, while a more old-fashioned atmosphere obtains at nearby Nowshera Bazaar and Moti Market. Discover Leh’s Silk Road heritage at the Central Asian Museum, and browse beautiful, 100%-local-pashmina textiles at stores such as Lena Ladakh, Jigmat Couture and Nomadic Woollen Mills. While you’re here, make the most of Ladakh’s varied culinary scene, from creative vegetarian recipes at Tsas by Dolkhar or classic Tibetan fare at Tibetan Kitchen to cakes and fresh-ground coffee at Bodhisattva or global delights at Montagne. 
Take a road trip to Changthang
Crossing high passes and descending to plunging river valleys amid surreal rockscapes, a trip from Leh to anywhere else in Ladakh is a thrill. Yet we recommend in particular a drive to the high, dry Changthang district in eastern Ladakh, which has just a few villages; a population of nomadic Changpa people with herds of yak, sheep and pashmina goats; and several exceptionally beautiful mountain lakes. Easily the most visited of these is Pangong Tso, 150km (93 miles) long (the eastern two-thirds is in Tibet) but rarely more than 5km (3 miles) wide – and ever-changing in its appearance, from a golden glow in the rising sun to translucent turquoise or forbidding grey when the skies turn gloomy. Tso Moriri, a mesmerizing 200km (124-mile) drive south from Pangong, is smaller, almost as beautiful and much less visited. You can take walks along the perimeters of or into the hills above both lakes.
Another good option is to combine Changthang with the Nubra district north of Leh.
Trek through mountain magnificence
The perfect way to experience Ladakh’s superlative mountain scenery and reach remote villages is to head out on foot along its vast network of paths and tracks, allowing the natural majesty to unfold gradually as you go. From gentle valley day walks to demanding, high-altitude, 10-day routes, the options are manifold (even if road construction has spoiled some time-honored treks).
The classic Markha Valley trek is a village-to-village hike along a scenic valley south of Leh, climaxing with the 5260m (17,257ft) Kongmaru La pass. Depending on where you start, it can take between three and eight days. Homestays in the villages introduce you to local life and mean you can walk without too much gear – and, if you like, without a guide.
For routes without homestays – such as the beautiful five-day Phyang-to-Hunder trek that crosses the Ladakh Range, or the tough seven-day Rumtse-Korzok route in Changthang (with six 5000-plus-m passes) – Leh travel agencies are ready to organize fully equipped camping treks with guides and pack animals. The main trekking season runs from June to September.
Roll down from the Khardung La
North of Leh on the road to Nubra, Khardung La, a 5359m (17,582ft) mountain pass, is reached by a spectacular zigzag ascent and provides expansive views to the distant Karakoram range. From May to October, Leh agencies will drive you up there and provide you with a mountain bike for what must be one of the world’s longest downhills – a truly exhilarating 40km (25-mile) roll all the way back down to Leh.
My favorite thing to do in Ladakh
I first visited Zanskar in 1986, not long after Ladakh had been opened to tourism. I had to trek 12 days across the mountains from Lamayuru to Padum, with a maroon-cloaked local man called Namgyal, five donkeys and Namgyal’s six-year-old son Tilnaas, who skipped over the passes in sky-blue rain boots. On my latest visit (in November 2023, researching the Ladakh chapter of Lonely Planet’s India guidebook), I followed a very similar route – by car, in less than one day.
Yet despite the encroachment of roads, this southern region of Ladakh – once an independent kingdom itself – is still remote enough to retain the slow-paced feel of uncommercial, pre-tourism Ladakh through its scattered traditional villages, barley fields, wild mountainscapes, pristine rivers and the spiritual atmosphere of its hillside monasteries. Zanskar remains a wonderful place to hang out in and explore for several days.
How much money do I need for Ladakh?
There’s plenty of good-value accommodation in Ladakh, with budget and mid-range rates generally below typical Indian levels. There are also a few luxury establishments where you can spend ₹20,000 (US$230) or more for a room (without meals). Rates for local taxis, the main transport for many visitors, are very reasonable. Though Leh has ATMs, you should take plenty of cash with you for out-of-town trips.
- Village homestay with two meals: ₹1200–1700 (US$14–20) per person
- Double room in mid-range guesthouse or hotel: ₹3000–4000 (US$35–45)
- Lunch in local restaurant: ₹150–300 (US$1.75–3.50)
- Taxi day trip to Indus Valley villages from Leh: ₹4000–9000 (US$45–100)
- Five-day taxi tour from Leh to Nubra and Changthang: ₹35,000–50,000 (US$400–580)
- Royal Enfield motorcycle rental: ₹2000-3000 (US$23–35) per day
- Downhill bicycle adventure at the Khardung La pass: ₹2500–5000 (US$30–60)
- Fully equipped camping trek: ₹7000-10,000 (US$80–110) per person per day
Do I need to acclimatize in Ladakh?
Much of Ladakh (including Leh) is above 3500m (11,500ft) in altitude, which causes headaches, tiredness and sometimes dizziness for many new arrivals. Take things very easy and drink plenty of fluids for at least two days. If necessary, treat yourself with Diamox tablets (from pharmacies) or breathe oxygen at the Oxygen Bar, next to Leh’s tourist office. If symptoms become severe, you risk acute mountain sickness – potentially fatal but treatable if you act promptly.
Do I need any permits to visit Ladakh?
Non-Indians need a Protected Area Permit (PAP) to visit areas near Ladakh’s northern and eastern borders, including Changthang and Nubra. Many travel agencies in Leh can obtain your permit in 24 hours for around ₹1200 (US$14). Indian citizens don’t need this permit, but to visit Ladakh must contribute a ₹400 “environmental fee,” payable online.
How to respect local culture in Ladakh
When visiting gompas, it’s respectful to dress modestly, showing no bare legs or shoulders. You should remove your shoes when entering temples, shrines and people’s homes. Walk clockwise around stupas (chortens) and mani walls (long stone rows with inscribed mantras), and turn prayer wheels clockwise.
Will my phone work in Ladakh?
Prepaid SIM cards bought outside Ladakh will not work within the region, and you must buy a new one. Jio, Airtel and BSNL networks all have shops in Leh: take your passport with visa in order to purchase. BSNL has the most widespread coverage around Ladakh – but its procedure for buying a card can take a day or two. Wi-fi is widely available in public places.
What clothing do I need for Ladakh?
Pack warm: summer days may be warm and sunny, but nighttime temperatures can still fall to not far above freezing, even in the valleys. The higher you go, the colder it gets.
Can I get an alcoholic drink in Ladakh?
There’s not much of a drinking culture in Ladakh, though upper-end restaurants and hotels often have alcohol licences, and some other establishments have beer available off-menu. No alcohol (or meat) is served on the eighth, 15th or last days of each Tibetan month (which begins with the new moon).
