The ultimate weekend in Isla Mujeres

Lapped by clear turquoise water and home to what some consider the best beach in the country – Playa Norte – Isla Mujeres is much more than a day trip from ritzy Cancún. While it is reasonable to explore the island in one day, this isn’t a place teeming with a to-do list of museums and attractions. Staying for at least a weekend will allow you to unwind and soak up the slower-paced island vibe. The beaches are the reason you’re here, after all.

As someone who grew up in Mexico City, I’m no stranger to vacationing in Mexican resort towns, but I’ve always gravitated to smaller, more bohemian destinations. Sure, Cancún serves up world-class dining, but Isla Mujeres lets you live your best island life, watching sunsets at a beach straight out of your dreams.

• When to arrive: Arrive on Friday around noon to make the most of your first day. (Ferries depart frequently from Cancún.) The season you choose to travel is more important than the day of the week, though. November to April is considered the dry season – with lower chances of a hurricane and less sargassum floating in the surf. The big exception to that is April, when you're most likely to run into the unsightly and foul-smelling seaweed while swimming. 
• How to get from the airport: Taxis are the quickest way to get to the ferry terminal from the airport (roughly 30 minutes), but they can be pricey. Instead, pre-book a shuttle service like Cancun Shuttle. The ferry takes about 20 minutes and leaves from Cancún Centro and the Hotel Zone.
• Getting around town: Once there, it’s easy and affordable to get around by taxi (about US$8 to get from one end of the island to another). Alternatively, rent a golf cart for a fun day of exploration – though driving may cut into your bar-hopping time, so weigh your options carefully.
• Where to stay:  You'll find the most hotels and restaurants on the northern end of the island. With direct access to idyllic Playa Norte, Ixchel Beach Hotel is a great option, as is the more upscale Casa del Jaguar nearby. Find the best sunrises on the southern end of the island. Casa de los Sueños is a boutique hotel with an infinity pool facing the ocean, a children’s pool and an adults-only pool with a swim-up bar – it’s also pet friendly.
• What to pack: Mexican beaches are warm year-round, so pack lightweight, breathable clothing. Don’t forget swimwear, comfortable walking shoes, a hat and sunglasses. Make sure you’re equipped with your favorite sunscreen and any beauty products you may need, as choices may be limited on the island.

Patrons grab a drink at the famed Playa Norte. Emma Shaw for Lonely Planet ©Emma Shaw/Lonely Planet

Day 1

Drop your bags off at your hotel and slide into your swimsuit - I’m sure you’re eager to check out the white, powdery beaches. If you caught an early flight and you're staying in Playa Norte, fuel up with coffee at El Palmar Café.   

How to spend the day: Kick things off on the right foot at Playa Norte, the island’s crown jewel. Laze on the softest sand or venture into its clear, inviting waters – so shallow that you can walk for hundreds of feet in waist-deep water. 

For lunch, take a taxi or hop in your rented golf cart and head south to La Casa del Tikinxic in Playa Lancheros, a beachfront restaurant famous for its pescado Tikin Xic – traditional Maya grilled fish marinated in achiote spice and wrapped in banana leaves.

Later, continue south to Punta Sur for beautiful sunset sea views and an opportunity to snap photos of the lighthouse and the sculpture garden. Don’t miss the Temple of Ixchel, dedicated to the Mayan goddess of love and fertility that gave the island its name (island of women).

Dinner: Enjoy a relaxing dinner with a view at Marbella Fish Market and Raw Bar near Punta Sur. Here, the seafood is priced according to weight and everything is fresh. The grilled octopus is unmissable - charred to perfection and served with a spicy sauce.

Vistors explore the vibrant city center of Isla Mujeres. Emma Shaw for Lonely Planet ©Emma Shaw/Lonely Planet

Day 2

Morning: If you're staying in Punta Sur, get up early to catch the sunrise – a treat in this part of the island. Start the day with spongy chocolate chip pancakes or French toast brullé at Rancho Capricho, and if you’re staying in the north, head to the lush North Garden for shrimp chilaquiles.

Next, book a morning snorkeling or boat tour to explore the fascinating underwater sculptures at Underwater Museum (MUSA). With more than 500 life-sized sculptures submerged at various depths along the coral reefs, this museum – just a 30-minute boat ride away – is not just a unique art gallery but also designed to promote coral growth and marine life. 

How to spend the day: After your underwater adventure, take some time to explore the town center and walk around its colorful streets – make sure you check out the Isla Mujeres Cultural Center for a taste of local history and art. 

For lunch, head to Los Tacos de Humo for some of the freshest and crunchiest fish tacos in the Caribbean. They’re served on flour tortillas and topped with pico de gallo (chunky salsa made with finely chopped tomato, onion, cilantro, lime and chili).

Next, spend some time lounging at the hotel pool. Don’t have one? Find a cozy stretch of white sand – the closest one to your hotel will do for a much-needed siesta.

Dinner: Come dinner time, your appetite is sure to return after the day’s multiple activities. You can’t go wrong at Fuego de Mar; located mid-island, this cozy spot is owned by an Argentinian couple who know how to work a wood fire. Order the grilled sea bass and the provoleta, a traditional Argentine appetizer of grilled provolone cheese, often topped with oregano and olive oil. 

After dark: End the night with cocktails at Playa Norte. Zama Beach and Lounge is a stylish spot with beachfront views and creative cocktails, but it closes at 6pm. If you want to keep going until 10pm, opt for Mayan Beach Club Restaurant & Tequileria instead – order one of their famous Mayan-garitas.

Zip line, kayak, and swim at the Garrafón Reef Park. Darren Tierney/Shutterstock ©Darren Tierney/Shutterstock

Day 3

Morning: Enjoy a relaxed breakfast of huevos rancheros at Rooster before heading south to explore the Garrafón Reef Park. Known for its colorful coral reef, the park offers plenty to do, and you can spend your last hours in Isla Mujeres snorkeling, kayaking or zip-lining.

Keep an eye on the ferry timetable and, if you have time, enjoy the swings that hover above the waves near the terminal for one last hurrah before heading to the ferry.