Discover Albania with these 5 road trips
Small, beautiful Albania is an ideal place to explore by car. Here are five itineraries for seeing what the country has to offer.
Albania has a reputation for rugged landscapes – and a frisson of danger.
Yet anyone who warns you against traveling to this Balkan country – especially in your own vehicle – is operating on old stereotypes and outdated information (we blame the movie Taken). In fact, Albania is quite safe, and an ideal place to explore by car.
Well-maintained main highways take you up to epic vistas and down to gorgeous beaches. In the mountains, you’ll find enchanting Ottoman-era cities with intact castles and the country’s infamous Communist-era bunkers. Compared with Albania’s unreliable fürgon buses – which may or may not arrive when scheduled – getting behind the wheel yourself is a no-brainer, especially if you’re able to rent one of Albania’s famous German Volkswagens and Mercedes-Benz low-riders.
That said, driving in Albania isn’t always a breeze. Roads away from highways can be shoddy and even dangerous for your vehicle, while bold driving maneuvers from other drivers can be scary. Yet if you stick to the main roads and give other drivers space, you’ll have a terrific time road-tripping around Albania.
Here are five itineraries to consider as you begin planning your road-trip adventures.
1. The Albanian heartland
Best for an overall introduction to the country
Tirana–Sarandë; 350km (217½ miles)
If you’re looking to see some of Albania’s highlights and have at least a week to spare, embark on this tour, which connects the country’s two major travel hubs. Start by exploring the capital Tirana without your car – taking in the famous Bunk’Art bunker museums, surveillance headquarters–turned–museum House of Leaves and beautiful mosques harmoniously next to churches. You can also sample delicious Albanian cuisine (sheep’s head, anyone?).
Once in your vehicle, drive south and stop for lunch at organic restaurant Fustanella Farm. Continue south until you get to the UNESCO-listed “City of a Thousand Windows,” Berat. Wander its tiny Ottoman-era streets up to hilltop Berat Castle before spending the night in a cute bed-and-breakfast.
The Berat area is surrounded by Albania’s best wineries (try Çobo Wine), as well as white-water rafting in Osumi Canyon (organize a trip with Albania Rafting Group).
From Berat, turn back around on SH72 and set off toward the coast. Consider stopping at the archeological parks Apollonia or Byllis on your way to Gjirokastra (or Gjirokastër). While Gjirokastër shares that UNESCO entry with Berat, it’s a completely different place, with plenty of things to do in a couple of days. Walk through bunker tunnels to the Ali Pasha Bridge, then visit the hilltop fortress (which was occupied by Fascist Italian troops in 1939).
Next, drive southeast over the mountains to the Blue Eye, a collection of vibrant turquoise ponds in a jungle-like oasis. After lunch, drive to Sarandë, the hub of the Albanian Riviera, from where you may choose to hop up the coast from beach to beach.
Planning tip: Don’t make the mistake of driving south from Berat to Gjirokastër, and past Osumi Canyon. This writer did that and ended up smashing up the bottom of his Volkswagen rental due to the rocky mountain road. Stick to the main SH highway instead.
2. The Albanian Riviera
Best for beach hopping
Sarandë–Vlorë; 170km (111¼ miles)
Albania’s southeastern Ionian coast has been a premier destination for sunseekers and beach lovers for at least a decade – and it lives up the hype. From Sarandë, you’ll find a lineup of extraordinary beaches that rival any in the region thanks to calm turquoise water, fine or white-pebble sand, and secluded stretches only accessible by boat or hike.
Start in Albania’s beach-town hot spot, Ksamil, which is packed with wonderful (albeit busy) beaches from which you can swim across to several islands or dive down to shipwrecks. Don’t miss Butrint, archeological ruins that span more than 2500 years.
Back up the coast, you’ll find a lineup of incredible beaches, each with its own unique vibe. A popular option north of Sarandë is 7km-long (4¼-mile-long) Borsh Beach.
Continue up to Himarë, where you can book a boat tour that takes you to isolated beaches with no one else around. Otherwise, nearby Akuarium, Livadi and Gjipe are some of Albania’s prettiest beaches (note you’ll need to hike for 30 minutes from the road to get to the last one).
Drive to Dhërmi, a buzzworthy hub for electronic music festivals like Kala and stylish bars on Dryamades Beach. Continue up and over the Llogara Pass for epic sea views before finishing in the bustling seaside city of Vlorë.
Planning tip: The quickest way to get to Sarandë is by flying to the Greek island of Corfu, then taking the ferry over.
3. A taste of the Accursed Mountains
Best for mountain vistas
Tirana–Shkodër; 135km (84 miles)
Albania’s northern mountain range is known as both the Accursed Mountains and the Albanian Alps – and they’re as amazing as those vivid names suggest. Yet since roads can be dangerous or even impassable, we wouldn’t recommend driving through them. Still, you can get a good introduction to the mountains on a road trip from Tirana to Shkodër, then consider continuing your trip on a trek.
Start from the capital and drive up the mountain to the fortress city of Krujë, where in the 15th century Albanian hero Skanderbeg fended off powerful Ottoman forces. The town has terrific artisanal shops in its bazaar and an interesting museum designed by dictator Enver Hoxha’s daughter and son-in-law.
Continue north, stopping at Adriatic beach Shënjin, then returning to the highway to land in Shkodër. The youthful city is known for its students and its bikeability, and for sparking the revolution that overthrew the Communist regime. Park your car and hop on a bike to explore Rozafa Fortress and cruise the lakefront, where you can taste freshwater fish and dip your toes in the water.
Detour: From Shkodër, leave your car and embark on a self-guided loop to the Accursed Mountains. Ask your accommodation to arrange the trip, which usually involves a boat ride on Lake Koman to Valbona, then a hike over the mountains to Theth. Grab a bus back to Shkodër – and your car – from there.
4. Southeastern Albania
Best for avoiding crowds
Tirana–Gjirokastër; 350km (217½ miles)
Go off the beaten track to explore the historic cities and lake district of southeastern Albania. From Tirana, cross the old Ottoman town of Elbasan and drive east to Pogradec and Korcë.
Continue south toward the Greek border to the towns of Leskovic and Përmet, where you can take a dip in thermal hot springs. After that, end your trip in Gjirokastër – or drive back up through the Albanian heartland or Riviera.
Detour: Inland from Korcë is the town of Voskopojë, which is surrounded by stone sanctuaries including the fresco-filled St Athanasius Church.
5. A beeline to the Coast
Best for a city escape
Tirana–Durrës; 80km (49¾ miles)
If you only have a day or two for a road trip, drive westbound from Tirana to the Adriatic coastal city Durrës. The town is home to a Roman amphitheater and Byzantine forum. From Durrës, it’s a 40-minute drive to splendid Spille, a tranquil beach backed by pine forest.
Tips for driving in Albania
- International car-rental agencies can only be found at Tirana’s airport. Local agencies are common elsewhere, but since you’ll have to pay cash and won’t have the luxury of credit card–provided insurance, you’ll have to pay out of pocket for any damages. That said, local car rentals are a bargain and mechanics don’t tend to charge too much in Albania, should anything happen. Find a local agency with the platform Local Rent.
- Be sure to stock to main highways, as roads can quickly get dicey once you veer off.
- Albanian drivers often do strange and erratic maneuvers on the road, including overtaking on blind mountain curves. Drive steadily, and keep your distance.
- Most Albanian cars take diesel fuel.
