Neutral wire problem with smart lightswitch
I am wiring up a Lutron Caseta smart switch that does require a neutral wire (the non-dimmer kind). I have done it the way I know to be proper from installing many of these, but for some reason on this particular circuit, it's not working correctly. When I flip the breaker back on, the light strobes and the smart switch is rebooting/losing power over and over, which makes me suspect the problem is with the neutral wire. When I use a non-neutral-needed dimmer, everything works fine, but I didn't want a dimmer on this particular circuit. This is an old house and I thought maybe the problem is that this is a 3-way switch loop with power at the fixture, but I took apart both junction boxes and the fixture and only place where there are multiple romex lines is junction box A (where I am wiring the switch). Here is the wiring layout: Junction box A: 2-wire (white/black) and 3-wire (white/black/red) Junction box B: 3-wire (white/white/black) Light Fixture: 2-wire (white/black) In the back of box A, there is a white and black wire capped together and a white wire going to the black screw on the old lightswitch. When I disconnect everything and turn the power on, the white wire is the only one that reads 120VAC to ground with my multimeter. I don't know why the white and black are reversed, but either way, the white should be my power to the panel, and the black/white wires capped in the back should be neutral? The first thing I don't understand is where is the red traveler going? The only place with a red wire is box A. The second thing I don't understand is why is there only one 2-wire at the fixture? If the power from the panel is at box A, doesn't there need to be a 3-wire going from the fixture to box B? E.g., per this diagram? submitted by /u/Pinesol_Shots [link] [comments]
I am wiring up a Lutron Caseta smart switch that does require a neutral wire (the non-dimmer kind). I have done it the way I know to be proper from installing many of these, but for some reason on this particular circuit, it's not working correctly. When I flip the breaker back on, the light strobes and the smart switch is rebooting/losing power over and over, which makes me suspect the problem is with the neutral wire. When I use a non-neutral-needed dimmer, everything works fine, but I didn't want a dimmer on this particular circuit.
This is an old house and I thought maybe the problem is that this is a 3-way switch loop with power at the fixture, but I took apart both junction boxes and the fixture and only place where there are multiple romex lines is junction box A (where I am wiring the switch). Here is the wiring layout:
Junction box A: 2-wire (white/black) and 3-wire (white/black/red) Junction box B: 3-wire (white/white/black) Light Fixture: 2-wire (white/black)
In the back of box A, there is a white and black wire capped together and a white wire going to the black screw on the old lightswitch. When I disconnect everything and turn the power on, the white wire is the only one that reads 120VAC to ground with my multimeter. I don't know why the white and black are reversed, but either way, the white should be my power to the panel, and the black/white wires capped in the back should be neutral?
The first thing I don't understand is where is the red traveler going? The only place with a red wire is box A.
The second thing I don't understand is why is there only one 2-wire at the fixture? If the power from the panel is at box A, doesn't there need to be a 3-wire going from the fixture to box B? E.g., per this diagram?
[link] [comments]