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The reinvention of Catania – Sicily’s once crime-ridden second city
A decades-long crackdown on organised crime is opening up Catania, with previous no-go areas now welcoming tourists and new businesses. Discover its restaurants and bars before the prices catch upIn 1787, Goethe wrote: “To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.” I’d go one step further and claim it’s impossible to really understand what makes the island tick without visiting Catania.Located on the east coast of the island, Catania is Sicily’s second-largest city and has been dubbed the Black City because of how prominently basalt features in its baroque architecture. Until recently this Unesco world heritage city, whose beauty can more than compete with its flashier neighbours, Palermo and Taormina, was blighted by organised crime and bad governance. But this is now changing, and fast. A decades-long crackdown on the Cosa Nostra has borne fruit, and previously no-go areas are now welcoming tourists and new businesses. My father’s family hails from San Cristoforo, the city’s poorest neighbourhood, and our conversations often centre on how the good times are finally arriving in Catania. But price points haven’t yet caught up with the city’s new-found buzz, especially in its many restaurants. Continue reading...
A decades-long crackdown on organised crime is opening up Catania, with previous no-go areas now welcoming tourists and new businesses. Discover its restaurants and bars before the prices catch up
In 1787, Goethe wrote: “To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.” I’d go one step further and claim it’s impossible to really understand what makes the island tick without visiting Catania.
Located on the east coast of the island, Catania is Sicily’s second-largest city and has been dubbed the Black City because of how prominently basalt features in its baroque architecture. Until recently this Unesco world heritage city, whose beauty can more than compete with its flashier neighbours, Palermo and Taormina, was blighted by organised crime and bad governance. But this is now changing, and fast. A decades-long crackdown on the Cosa Nostra has borne fruit, and previously no-go areas are now welcoming tourists and new businesses. My father’s family hails from San Cristoforo, the city’s poorest neighbourhood, and our conversations often centre on how the good times are finally arriving in Catania. But price points haven’t yet caught up with the city’s new-found buzz, especially in its many restaurants. Continue reading...
