The ultimate weekend in Porto

A taxi driver once told me I would be back in Porto before I knew it. I couldn’t help but smile because I knew he was right. I was born in Lisbon, but Porto stole my heart the moment I saw the Douro River emerge in the window on that first train ride from the capital.

I’ve been here on my own, wandering through the cafés and galleries of Bonfim and Miguel Bombarda; with friends, scouring thrift shops in and around Rua de Santa Catarina; and with my partner, clinking glasses of Douro wine over a sunset at Jardim do Morro. And every time I visit Porto, I find something new — from beloved sandwich spots to secret vintage warehouses or cool cocktail bars. Of course, there’s also the endless tile facades, the riverside promenade, the art museums, the historic wine cellars and, yes, even the beach. Those fantastic things to do and more are why I never say no to a few days in Porto.

Here are some insights to help you make the most of a long weekend in Porto:

• When to arrive: Plan to arrive on Wednesday and stay for three nights to catch more places open (many businesses close on Sundays and Mondays). June is one of the busiest months to visit Porto but a great time for festivals like São João. To skip the summer crowds, opt for spring or early fall, though be prepared for some rainy days.
• How to get from the airport: Take the metro from the airport straight to Trindade or Bolhão. From there, it’s a short walk to the city center. Ridesharing apps like Uber and Bolt are also popular and can get you straight to your hotel door.
• Getting around town: The city is small enough to explore on foot, but if you want to skip those hills (and there are many), the metro is your best bet for getting around Porto. The bus network is also great, and a handful of historic trams can whisk you up the coast.
• Where to stay: If you’re on a tight budget, book a dorm bed at the Passenger Hostel above the São Bento train station for about €20 (US$22). Have a bit more to spare? Try the rooms or apartments at Mo House, from about €150 (US$170). And if you want to splurge on a river view, the Yeatman over at Vila Nova de Gaia has rooms starting at €465 (US$517).
• What to pack: Layers and a rain jacket are always handy in Porto. Even on a summer day, you may see an occasional shower. Sturdy shoes are a must to tackle the cobblestone streets and a hat for the sun.

Mercado do Bolhão; Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet.

Lanche at Confeitaria Belo Mundo; Austin Bush.

Capela das Almas; Adrienne Pitts/Lonely Planet

Palácio da Bolsa; ikumaru/Shutterstock.

Day 1

Morning

Take the metro to Bolhão and walk over to Confeitaria Belo Mundo for a slice of breakfast. Order the lanche (pronounced exactly like "lunch"), a stuffed brioche that Porto residents are mad for. The classic is filled with ham and cheese, but there’s also a veggie version with cheese, vegetables and mushrooms. Then walk to Capela das Almas, posing for a shot in front of its giant azulejo (painted glazed tile) facade before hitting Mercado do Bolhão, a renovated food market filled with fruit and veg stalls and a handful of restaurants. While you’re here, swing by Humana Vintage next door for some retro finds.

How to spend the day

Wend toward Rua de Santa Catarina by way of A Pérola do Bolhão, a 20th-century grocery store featuring one of Porto’s iconic art nouveau facades. Keep your eyes on the left to spot another belle epoque gem at Majestic Café. From here, it’s a short walk to the São Bento train station, where the walls are filled with over 20,000 tiles. Meander toward the riverfront, stopping to admire two major attractions: Igreja de São Francisco, with its lavish gilded interior, and Palácio da Bolsa, home to a stunning neo-Moorish room.

Dinner 

Slowly hike up to Jardim das Virtudes in time for sunset. Depending on the season, grab dinner before or after at Taberna Santo António. Expect hearty dishes like juicy pork cheeks, suckling pig and fried codfish, and if you’re brave enough, try the tripas à moda do Porto, a traditional tripe and bean stew. It’s a small space, so reservations are essential. If it fills up, the bar Musa das Virtudes a few doors up does some mean burgers paired with its own craft beer.

After dark 

Drop by Pinguim Café on Rua de Belomonte for anything from stand-up comedy to quiz nights or live gigs.

A peacock at the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal. Shutterstock/Sana Baleia

Centro Português de Fotografia. Emily McAuliffe/Lonely Planet

Day 2

Morning

If I had to pick a café in Porto to hang out in all day, it would be Hakko. I love its colorful decor, the perfectly brewed chai latte and the homemade pastries (the cardamom buns are to die for). The café is conveniently located around Bombarda, Porto’s creative district. Every time I come to the city, I make it my mission to stop here and go browsing in the art galleries, sifting through racks of vintage clothes at Patch (you can sense a theme here) or flicking through books and records at Matéria Prima.

How to spend the day

You’re only a few steps from Jardins do Palácio de Cristal – keep your eyes peeled for the resident peacocks. I like to pop into Galeria Municipal do Porto inside the garden to check out the latest exhibit (access is free), then progress to the art museums, like Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis, which houses a staggering collection of ceramics, sculptures and paintings, and Centro Português de Fotografia, a political prison turned photography museum.

Dinner 

I first came across the natural wines by Folias de Baco at the Original Eco Mercado. When I realized the winemaker had its own restaurant, I had to go. At Taberna Folias de Baco, you can try its natural wines paired with Portuguese charcuterie and a variety of petiscos (snacks), vegan included. You can order à la carte, but if you have a companion (and both eat meat), I suggest the Flavours from Douro menu. For €40 (US$45), you get a whole range of sausages and cheeses, all from the Douro region. Then order a couple of wines by the glass — the staff will happily give you recommendations. I have a soft spot for the orange wine aged in an old clay amphora. Book ahead and bring cash.

After dark 

Hit up the bars around Rua da Galeria de Paris or head a little further to Torto, one of the city’s top cocktail bars. I still can’t get over the flavors of its mezcal-infused Umami Mia, with black carrot and verjuice, but really the whole menu is a treat.

Banco de Materiais; Andrei Antipov/Shutterstock.

Francesinha; Starcevic/Getty Images.

Jardim do Morro; anaganeva/Shutterstock

The Sandeman patio in Vila Nova de Gaia. Glen Berlin/Shutterstock.

Day 3

Morning

You’ve seen Torto in the evening, but come back in the morning and you’ll be blown away by its neo-Moorish facade. Nearby are a series of cool shops: Labels of Tomorrow, showcasing pieces by independent designers; Mon Père Vintage, with jazzy pattern shirts; and Coração Alecrim, featuring handmade crafts (there’s a plant-based Japanese restaurant inside too). 

How to spend the day

Head toward Banco de Materiais, which holds a collection of the city’s iconic tiles. Then continue to Igreja do Carmo to take in yet another azulejo facade and explore the labyrinth of rooms within. Wander through the city’s former Jewish district toward Miradouro da Vitória before reaching the riverfront. Spend the rest of the afternoon across the bridge in Vila Nova de Gaia, touring the port wine cellars. Try the summer terrace at Churchill’s 1982 Garden Bar or the century-old Niepoort cellars. Afterward, go up to Jardim do Morro to join the crowds toasting the sunset.

Dinner 

Can’t afford a meal at the two-Michelin-star restaurant at the Yeatman but still want a table with a river view? Mirone Underground is just a short walk from Jardim do Morro, and if you get there early (or call ahead), you may snatch a seat on its rooftop. The specialty here is the cachorrinho (a hot dog stuffed with two types of sausage and cheese), but you can also go for the classic francesinha, a whopper of a meat-filled sandwich drenched in a spicy tomato and beer sauce.

After dark 

Head back into town following the tram tracks over the bridge and see what’s on at the independent Batalha Centro de Cinema. If you come in summer, you may stumble upon an open-air session in the square. From here, it’s a short walk to Bonfim, my favorite of Porto's neighborhoods, where you can wind up the evening at Terraplana with a spicy margarita or at Fiasco, where DJs spin records.

Praia de Matosinhos. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet

Matosinhos. Sandra Moraes/Shutterstock

Day 4

Morning

The first few times I came to Porto, I never made it to Matosinhos, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s only a 30-minute metro ride from Bolhão to this seaside district (Matosinhos Sul is the closest stop to the beach). You can grab breakfast at Terrárea, a veggie-friendly café set amid a plant shop, then tour Conservas Pinhais, one of Portugal’s remaining canned food factories, hailing back to the 1920s. You’ll see workers packaging everything by hand, then finish with a delicious sardine tasting.

How to spend the day

Matosinhos is known for its quality seafood, and Rua Heróis de França is packed with restaurants selling the fresh catch on the grill. Grab lunch here or head to the Mercado Municipais de Matosinhos to choose your fish directly from the stalls. Afterward, go for a stroll along the beach (or join a surf lesson if you have the energy). Then get back on the metro and exit at Casa da Música in time for a guided tour of the concert hall — if you’re lucky, you may happen on a rehearsal of Porto’s symphony orchestra or a performance at the café downstairs.

It’s finally time to pack your bags – I hope you left some room for those thrift finds and one (or two) bottles of port. If Porto’s creative energy has caught you too, and you want to return again and again, next time stop in at the latest exhibit at Serralves or a music festival like Primavera Sound, or visit some of the city’s hidden galleries and ateliers.