What Was Loewe Like Before Jonathan Anderson?

Creative Director Jonathan Anderson departed Loewe mid-March after a transformative 11-year tenure during which he reinvigorate the Spanish brand, helping it ascend to a new spot in luxury fashion's great pecking order. Just a week after that news broke, the LVMH-owned house named successors for the leading role: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the duo behind Proenza Schouler, are the new creative directors.

In truth, Loewe remained somewhat niche in the global luxury conversation—until Anderson arrived. His appointment in 2013 marked a seismic shift. He injected surrealist elements into Loewe’s DNA, playing with trompe l’oeil effects, sculptural silhouettes, and an irreverent sense of whimsy. He transformed the brand into a conceptual powerhouse, bridging the gap between fashion and art while embracing digital culture. His immersive Fall/Winter 2025 presentation—his final act at Loewe—underscored the avant-garde legacy he leaves behind. But what was Loewe like before its rise in the zeitgeist? 

The brand was founded in 1846, far before fashion brands work as they do now, following a fashion week calendar with allotted times for runway shows or with rotating creative directors. It began as a leather goods brand and became a favorite among Spanish royals. It saw a shift in the 1980s when Giorgio Armani and the late Laura Biagiotti helmed womenswear designs. LVMH acquired it in 1996, which also signaled a new chapter for the Spanish label. Before getting to Anderson, it had changed creative hands many times. Now, the question looms: how will McCollough and Hernandez reinterpret Loewe’s essence after such a monumental era for the brand?

Amid speculation on how their design ethos will shape the Spanish heritage label, keep scrolling to take a look back at Loewe before Anderson’s tenure and discover who else creatively led the label, before its dramatically redefined trajectory.

Early Beginnings

Loewe’s identity has always been rooted in its mastery of leather goods since its founding in 1846.  Even as the brand expanded into ready-to-wear, leather remained its lifeblood—a legacy its creative directors have upheld through the decades, each leaving a distinct imprint on the brand. In the 1980s, the brand saw a brief but notable shift when Giorgio Armani and the late Laura Biagiotti designed its womenswear lines, adding their own touch of Italian sophistication. However, it was Loewe’s 1996 acquisition by LVMH that marked a new era, positioning the house for global prominence while ensuring that leather remained its defining signature.

Narcisco Rodriguez (1997-2000)

The Spanish label ushered in a new chapter of modernization and global expansion with Narcisco Rodriguez’s appointment, marking the first creative director under its ownership in 1997. Rodriguez brought a minimalist sensibility that resonated with the sleek aesthetic of the late ‘90s, refining Loewe’s identity for a new generation. His tenure was pivotal in elevating the house’s global presence, driving international expansion and increasing visibility through strategic store openings. He debuted his vision for the brand with the Fall/Winter1998 collection, presented at the LVMH's headquarters.

José Enrique Oña Selfa (2000-2007)

José Enrique Oña Selfa took the reins in 2000, with a vision that blended the house’s Spanish heritage with contemporary silhouettes. The Belgian-born designer, who had Spanish roots, created a unique fusion that redefined the label’s image: He showcased his innovative approach to cutting and his ability to translate the sultry essence of Flamenco into modern, sophisticated designs. Under his direction, Loewe’s ready-to-wear offerings embraced a fresh sensuality, proving that the brand’s artisanal craftsmanship could evolve while staying true to its cultural identity.

Stuart Vevers (2007-2013)

During his tenure, Stuart Vevers (Coach's current creative director) reinforced the brand’s reputation for exquisite leather craftsmanship while sharpening its focus on ready-to-wear. By elevating both categories, he positioned Loewe more prominently within the luxury fashion world, attracting a broader global audience. One of his most celebrated collections, named "Tales of Spain," reimagined archival prints from the 1970s and 1980s, injecting a youthful energy into the brand. With bold graphics and vibrant storytelling, the collection resonated with a new generation of fashion lovers, proving that Loewe’s rich heritage could be both timeless and modern.