How to spend the ultimate weekend in Killarney, Ireland

Sitting on the outskirts of the stunning Killarney National Park, Killarney is a lively, energetic tourist hub, popular with international and domestic travellers. The town is also a perfect base to explore the further reaches of Kerry, with plenty of accommodation options, excellent restaurants, cozy pubs with live music nearly every night of the week, and tour operators to bring you to any of the incredible regional sights that you might want to see.

Coming from the opposite coast, I had never been to Killarney before my recent visit, but my first hectic visit over a long weekend was enough to convince me that I will need to come back. Even with four action-packed days, I barely skimmed the surface of the activities, views and nights out on offer in this bustling town.

Killarney town, Ireland. frankix/Getty Images frankix/Getty Images

• When to arrive: Friday, early, is a great time to start your few days exploring Killarney. If it’s an option, a couple of days during the week won’t be so hectic, and accommodations will be cheaper. There’s also less chance of running into a raucous hen party out on the town. Summer is also incredibly busy, so consider spring or autumn for your visit. The wonderful Wander Wild Festival takes place in April, and is a great choice for families, wellness enthusiasts and outdoor adventurers.
• How to get from the airport: Kerry airport is a 25-minute drive from Killarney via taxi or public bus. There’s also a train that leaves a couple of times a day from Heuston station in Dublin that will take you to Killarney station right in the middle of the town. This will be far more relaxing and scenic than driving from the capital.
• Getting around town: Walking is always your best option for Irish towns. They have not been designed for cars, and traffic can be mayhem. Killarney is no different. Bikes are great to get you to the outer edges of the park for any walks or outdoor activities you might have planned slightly outside the town. Most hostels and hotels will offer bike hire. 
• Where to stay: Killarney Plaza Hotel is a beautiful spot for anyone looking to splurge, and to be placed smack-bang in the center of the town. For those on a tighter budget, the Black Sheep Hostel, run by travelers for travelers, is a great option. And for something a bit more middle-of-the-road price-wise, and out of the bustle of the town center, Crystal Springs is a bed and breakfast sitting on the River Flesk.
• What to pack: Bring walking or hiking boots, and raingear that folds up easily. You’ll be out and about a lot, so it’s handy to have a raincoat just in case – this is, after all, the west coast of Ireland.

Dinner at Polly's. Amy Lynch/Lonely Planet Amy Lynch/Lonely Planet

Friday

How to spend the day: Kayaking on the lake in the middle of Killarney National Park is an absolute must. Head out onto the calm waters of Lough Leane surrounded by Macgillycuddy's Reeks mountain range. The views are unrivalled. Irish Adventures will take you out on the lake from Ross Castle (dating from the 15th century, this historic site is worth a look in its own right). Splitting their time between Dingle and Killarney, this friendly and professional outfit run by Noel and Conor is perfect for anyone from beginners upwards. They are mindful of varying abilities, and all gear is provided. You will kayak out to Inisfallen Island, site of a monastery from the 7th century, and currently home to ruins of a 12th-century Augustinian Priory. We got lucky with the weather and had an extremely peaceful afternoon paddling our way over smooth lakewater under the sun. For those who want to enjoy the views with less strenuous requirements, there are also waterbus tours available with Killarney Lake Tours.

Dinner: After working up an appetite on the lake, Polly’s on the ground floor of the Ross Hotel in Killarney town is the perfect place to stop for dinner and a few refreshing cocktails. This modern spot is inspired by Mediterranean food with a focus on sustainability. The housemade mint lemonade is perfect on a warm day.

After dark: No sojourn in Killarney is considered complete until you’ve spent a few hours of an evening ensconced in a cozy pub with a pint, listening to some live traditional music. O’Connor’s is the gold standard of such a pub, boasting live music every night. This family-run spot is 100 years old and full of charm. It’s not big, so get there early. JM Reidy’s is another great choice, with pizza to boot.

Calves at Muckross Creamery. Amy Lynch/Lonely Planet Amy Lynch/Lonely Planet

Saturday

Morning: For early risers, a sunrise dip at Dundag Beach will really wake you up. The water wasn’t exactly warm in early April – see if you can withstand more than I can (above the ankles). It’s a gorgeous spot to enjoy the early morning. Samhradh’s sauna, a mobile sauna in the region, was there for a warm-up afterwards, or you could do like some adventurers and hop continually between the lake and the sauna for 30 minutes to get your blood really circulating. Check the location of the sauna during your visit; it will be beside one of the bodies of water in the region.

How to spend the day: For those traveling with little ones – or who just like ice cream – the Cow to Cone tour at Muckross Creamery cannot be missed. The award-winning ice cream is a recent addition to the dairy farm of John and Catherine Fleming, the farm having been in John’s family since the 1840s. A tour of the farm, just 5km (3 miles) from Killarney town, involves being brought to see the calves, the milking room, the cows, and the ice-cream room up close, along with a whistle-stop introduction to the process of making ice cream. And of course it includes a sample!

The friendly family operation also sells its own granola and skyr (yoghurt). The ice cream itself is delicious: creamy and fresh, with incredible flavors. My favorite was the strawberry, but the options can change, so it's best to try a few! It's a working farm and tours don’t run all the time, but you can find the ice cream in local shops and at farmers markets. 

Dinner: Killarney is not short on excellent dinner options, no matter what budget or type of cuisine you’re looking for, from upmarket Hilliard’s on Main St and Argentinian street food at Tango’s, to small plates with excellent cocktails at Pig’s Lane. Killarney Brewing Distillery, just outside the town, is a great choice for those who want to sample some local beer (their red ale is excellent) alongside pub classics such as wings or fish and chips.

A deer in Tomies Wood, Killarney. Amy Lynch/Lonely Planet Amy Lynch/Lonely Planet

Sunday

Morning: Start off your morning with a lively brunch in Cafe du Parc, connected to the Killarney Plaza Hotel, right opposite Killarney House. It has all the usual brunch options, to a high standard (try the eggs Benedict), and will set you right up for a hike.

How to spend the day: Tomies Wood, a 20-minute drive from the town, is the perfect spot for a Sunday walk. If you’re lucky as you wander through one of Ireland’s few oak woodlands, you’ll see deer, squirrels and maybe even a white-tailed eagle. There are a couple of trail options, depending on how intensive a hike you’re looking for, the longest taking you on a 6km (3.7-mile) loop. Note that the walk is very popular with dog walkers. Keep an eye out for the steps down to O’Sullivan’s Cascade, a peaceful waterfall to sit alongside moss-covered rocks and have a break, enjoying the sounds of the water. Keep some drinking water to hand for the steps back up.

Next time: Despite my action-packed few days exploring Killarney, I left with an even longer "to do" list than when I had arrived. I still want to climb Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest peak. I still want to do the historic Torc Mountain hike. I still want to explore the supposedly stunning Gap of Dunloe via boat and bike. I still want to see the Victorian Muckross Estate. Needless to say, Killarney has jumped up the list as one of my favorite destinations in Ireland.

Amy Lynch traveled to Killarney at the invitation of the Wander Wild Festival. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.