Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2025: A Neo-Dandy’s Rebellion in Paris
Seán McGirr redefines the neo-dandy with a playful, rebellious edge for Fall/Winter 2025.
In Paris, Alexander McQueen transported audiences to a world where Victorian gothic collided with modern rebellion. Seán McGirr, presenting his first Fall/Winter collection as creative director, unveiled an exploration of dandyism—reinterpreted and unraveled—through a bold and dramatic lens. The collection paid homage to the radical spirit of the dandy, drawing inspiration from figures like Oscar Wilde and Vesta Tilley.
"To me, Dandyism is the ultimate act of adornment; deeply personal, playful and transgressive," McGirr expressed in the show notes.
With this idea in mind for the Fall/Winter 2025, McGirr played with contrast—juxtaposing the refined and the raw, the elegant and the subversive. The collection embraced rich textures and silhouettes inspired by Victorian tailoring but injected with a sharp, contemporary attitude. Fluid silks and intricate lace were layered against structured wool and jacquards, creating a sense of intimate opulence. 
Gold bullion embroidery shimmered on cloaks, while crystalline masks glowed under the runway lights, adding an air of mystery. Philip Treacy’s sculptural hats further amplified the theatricality, evoking the grandeur of 19th-century dandy fashion.
While the collection was deeply rooted in dark romanticism, McGirr introduced a vibrant, almost hallucinatory color story. One particularly show-stopping look featured a fiery red ensemble with voluminous, sculpted faux fur sleeves that enveloped the model like a dramatic, high-fashion embrace. Another, in stark contrast, showcased a structured purple jacket paired with a voluminous ruffled skirt, fishnet tights, and a wide-brimmed black hat—blurring the lines between period drama and contemporary edge.
As McGirr continues to shape McQueen’s new era, one thing is certain: the spirit of dandyism is alive and well. "It raises questions of character and identity, idealism and gender," McGirr wrote. "I wanted to explore the enduring relevance of the dady's radical spirit in our modern world." 
