Diotima Translates Black Women's Interior Lives Into Twinkling Trousers, Crystal Dresses

There is not a single Diotima collection without profundity at its core. The woman behind the brand, Rachel Scott, has used her clothes to explore everything from the complexities of death to the significance of dancehall. For Fall/Winter 2025, the 41-year-old designer presents a layered love letter to Black women and delves into their interior worlds, offering a subjectivity that’s hard to find in pop culture. 

Last November, Scott put out a call for "images of the Black women that came before us and paved the way: the auntie, the trans mothers, the grandma," her show notes reveal. This granted her a swell of stories and imagery (which spanned decades from the '50s to the ‘80s and in between) that became the genesis for this collection, dubbed "Matriarch." Whatever she sought in her research, the Jamaica-born designer found and translated beautifully into the clothes.

Pieces in the Fall/Winter 2025 collection feature Diotima signatures, like the label's crystal mesh and macramé details. Plenty more is novel: Scott reveals drop waist silhouettes, draped wool dresses, and regally high necklines. Suiting remains powerful, especially in twinkling trousers and caped jackets. The color palette is refined, with pomegranates and pastel yellows that feel like sepia tones on old film. A medley of textures throughout channels the confident energy and ease the award-winning designer is known for.