Homme Plissé Issey Miyake's Itinerant Creativity at Pitti 108

Continuing to explore the potential of pleating in the technological and technical field, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake presented the new concept of Open Studio, an idea of itinerant research that extends to the world in search of inspiration and creativity. To enhance the idea of universality of the Japanese brand, for the first stop at Pitti Uomo 108—as Guest of Honor—the team presentsed the Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Villa Medicea della Petraia.

“On this occasion, we will present our collection to a local and international audience in Florence, created based on our research and field studies conducted during our travels in Italy,” the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake design team explained. After visiting Venice, the Cinque Terre and part of Tuscany, the creative team translated the encounter between Japanese know-how and the influences of Italian beauty. Colors in the collection echo those of the Cinque Terre, like those of wine or vegetables. 

Miyake's everyday clothing comes to life among the water games of fountains, sprinklers and nebulizers, which give life to the performance of the season, between playful splashes and artificially recreated rainbows. Pleated suits, vests, enveloping tunics and garment bags that become fun functional outerwear parade among the labyrinthine gardens.

In 1988, inspired by Issey Miyake, Makiko Minagawa developed the first pleated fabric from a polyester strip, a lightweight, shiny, crease-resistant and washable fabric, obtained with an innovative heat process that was later patented. From this idea, Issey Miyake set out its manifesto of easy-to-wear, easy-to-wash garments, suitable for every occasion and reflecting the Japanese brand's joie de vivre.

Accompanying the show is the exhibition Amid Impasto of Horizons, a sensorial and tactile tale that reveals the secret gestation of each fold, the silent conception of a volume, the soul of a fabric. A hymn to the savoir-faire and joie de vivre that have always inhabited the aesthetics of the Japanese fashion house.