Sergio Hudson Is ‘90s Fine for Fall/Winter 2025
The runway show started off playing Sade, as if foreshadowing the ‘90s-esque looks and dapper Americana. The designer reveals what else inspired him this season.
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Sergio Hudson's latest collection, revealed on the second day of New York Fashion Week, is replete with textured fur jackets and incredibly dapper women’s suiting. The runway show, which opened playing Sade’s "Nothing Can Come Between Us," revealed 38 looks that embody a certain timelessness and '90s fine look.
"I wanted to make opulent American sportswear," he tells L’OFFICIEL backstage. "I was inspired by a lot of menswear this season, so you'll that influence and opulent textiles: lots of leather, lots of fur, lots of custom sequins, and hand-embroidered shirts."
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection is dominated by the designer’s usual ingenious in power suiting, including three-piece suits in fiery red, wool pinstripe coats to match tailoring, and sets of tweed jackets and skirts. These silhouettes—in addition to the more evening-friendly liquid sequin gowns—feel familiar, but they’re also a step in a different direction this season, the South Carolina-born designer reveals. “We’re normally more monochromatic, but we're mixing it up this season,” he says, alluding to the ensembles mixing pale wood hues with forest green or bone with lapis. There are still plenty of monochromatic looks, though, including in rich jewel tones, cherry red, and onyx.
Hudson’s designs have always embodied a boss energy, evident in his sets of suiting with padded shoulders and and perfectly cut trousers. After all, Vice President Kamala Harris opted for one of his signature tailored looks when she wore a silk tuxedo overcoat and sequined cocktail dress to the 2021 presidential inauguration. While neckties for women are trending right now, they’ve already been an element on Sergio Hudson runways in recent seasons. To him, the accessory may be gaining more traction now since shoppers seem to be yearning for clothes that makes them feel like bosses while still being very feminine, he says.
Another fun look in the runway? The Fall/Winter 2025 collection has a jeans moment. (“I love denim. I’m American, so denim is a staple,” he says.) The show at NYFW also revealed a custom capsule collaboration with Stuart Weitzman, including heeled boots, stilettos, and more. Models on the runway boasted ‘90s classic smokey glam, including dramatic eyes and a pale nude lip, according to Marc Reagan. “Then, we complement it with this new [Bobbi Brown Cosmetics] pot rouge velvet matte we’ve created,” he adds, on the vampy blush completing the makeup look.
Keke Palmer, Tamron Hall, and Muni Long stunned front row at the show, held at NeueHouse Madison Square. Each opted for a white ensemble, like Long’s tuxedo and Palmer’s wool coat paired with a mocha-colored turtleneck and belt. In his final walk, Hudson closed the show wearing a T-shirt showing his support and standing with L.A. as the city recovers from recent wildfires.
Click through the gallery below to see every look from the Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter 2025 collection.