.jpg?width=1920&height=1920&fit=bounds&quality=80&format=jpg&auto=webp#)
A first-time guide to Dalmatia, Croatia
Along Croatia’s Adriatic coast, Dalmatia stands out for its rocky coast dotted with glittering seaside towns and ribboned with magnificent beaches.
Stretching along most of Croatia’s Adriatic shoreline all the way to Montenegro, Dalmatia stands out for its rocky coast dotted with glittering seaside towns and ribboned with magnificent beaches.
Off that fabled coast lie hundreds of islands and islets in the Adriatic Sea, forming the Mediterranean’s second-biggest archipelago (after Greece’s Aegean Islands). Away from its sparkling coastline, most of the region is covered by the dramatic peaks and valleys of the Dinaric Alps.
The Dalmatian coast and islands have long been favorite summer vacation spots for visitors from inland Croatia and nearby countries, who savor the area’s Mediterranean climate and lifestyle (which includes, not least, plenty of good food and wine).
Yet Dalmatia isn’t all just sun and beaches: the region is also home to some of Croatia’s best attractions, boasting six of Croatia’s 10 UNESCO-listed sites. What’s more, five of Croatia’s eight national parks are found here, too – confirming its image as a wonderland for nature lovers.
Have we piqued your interest yet? Read on for all you need to know before your first trip to Dalmatia. Which we reckon may not be your last. 
When should I go to Dalmatia?
Dalmatia is a fantastic region to visit year-round. The hot summer months are ideal for beach-hopping and exploring the coastline on a sailboat. But since this is also peak season, you’ll need to have accommodation and your rental car or yacht charter lined up well in advance. Keep in mind that peak season also brings peak crowds and inflated prices.
If you shy away from tourist throngs, consider visiting in the spring (May to June) and fall (September to October) shoulder seasons. These periods are perfect if you prefer to be more spontaneous, creating your itinerary as you go without too much pre-planning. You won’t have to worry too much about the weather, either, since things usually stay very pleasant, without the stifling heat typical of summer’s peak.
Though winter can be wet and windy at times, there are plenty of sunny and even warm days. This is also the time of year when life slows down on the coast and especially on the islands, with many hotels and restaurants shutting down completely until spring. If you’re thinking of a winter trip, you may be pleasantly surprised by the clement weather yet disappointed by the lack of activity and hibernation vibe that obtains during this season.
How much time should I spend in Dalmatia?
A trip to Dalmatia should be as long as possible, since there’s so much to see and experience.
But if you only have time for a weekend escape, then either plan a stay in Dubrovnik to explore its bewitchingly beautiful old town; visit the enchanting gardens of Trsteno Arboretum; and add a quick jaunt to car-free Lokrum island, a protected nature reserve. Or head to Split instead to wander the cobblestone squares and narrow lanes of Diocletian’s Palace, and climb Marjan Hill for sweeping city and sea views – then hop on the ferry to Bol on Brač Island to lie out on sublime Zlatni Rat beach.
If you have the luxury of more time, add on a visit to lovely and underrated Šibenik, a city of fortresses and the splendid St James’ Cathedral. Alternatively, head to Zadar to take in its charming old town and the sea-facing installations of the Sea Organ and Sun Salutation. Then move inland to see the spectacular tumbling waterfalls at Krka National Park, and consider adding an island of two to your itinerary: Hvar, Vis, Korčula and Mljet are all must-sees for a first-timer.
Is it easy to get in and around Dalmatia?
Visitors have the option to fly into Zadar, Split or Dubrovnik airports, or to Brač Island. The number of flight connections increases sharply during the summer months, when European charters and low-cost flights are in peak operation. A shuttle-bus service connects each of these airports to their respective city centers. If you’re flying into Brač, a taxi is the only option, unless you arrange a transfer in advance.
Though public transportation is generally reliable, many visitors to Dalmatia prefer to rent a car, especially families or groups traveling together. Still, traveling by bus between the main cities and towns along the coast is certainly possible, with bus services frequent and mostly punctual.
Another mode of travel to consider is by boat. Hiring a sailboat or yacht is a popular way to tour the islands and coastal towns. A regular ferry service transports passengers between the popular tourist hotspots of Dubrovnik, Korčula Town, Hvar Town, Bol and Split.
Top things to do in Dalmatia
Take in numerous UNESCO-listed buildings
Immerse yourself in cultural riches with a mini tour of Dalmatia’s most dazzling UNESCO sites. Start in Dubrovnik’s compact 10th-century old town, a labyrinth of narrow lanes and steep stairways, filled with churches, palaces, monasteries and fountains. To get a bird’s-eye view of it all, follow the 1¼-mile-long (2km-long) circuit atop the massive walls and take in the panorama of terracotta rooftops and the glittering Adriatic Sea. Next, head to Split to explore the 4th-century Diocletian’s Palace, a Roman city within a city sheltering over 200 ancient stone buildings and age-old churches. Nearby Trogir is a tiny island-city chock full of baroque palaces, Romanesque churches and monasteries hiding treasures of early Christian and Gothic art and sculpture. 
Plan a Dalmatian island-hopping tour
Choose either Zadar, Split or Dubrovnik as your base for a Dalmatian island-hopping adventure.
From Zadar, it’s just a short sail to Dugi Otok and its astonishing cliffs, saltwater lake and gorgeous Telašćica Bay. From there, you’ll take a boat trip to remember, through the sublime seascape of the archipelago of 150 landforms making up the Kornati Islands. Split is the launching pad to some of Dalmatia’s most popular island destinations. Brač and its otherworldly Zlatni Rat beach, the former army bunker island of Vis and party island Hvar can all be easily reached by car or passenger ferry from Split. Floating off the coast of Dubrovnik are the alluring Elafiti Islands, all just a short jaunt away. Koločep and car-free Lopud entice with their sandy beaches, while Šipan charms with tidy towns of stone houses, olive groves and orange trees.
Connect with nature in Dalmatia’s national parks
Dalmatia is a wonderland of turquoise rivers and lakes, rumbling waterfalls and mountain landscapes. A short drive from Šibenik, Krka National Park is a star attraction thanks to incredible tiered waterfalls that spill into ethereal green-blue pools. If you’re looking for mountain highs and unspoiled nature, drive the short distance from Zadar to Paklenica National Park to hike the rugged peaks and dramatic canyons of the Velebit mountains. Near Makarska, Biokovo Nature Park is a hiker’s paradise, with more than 40 trails crisscrossing the mountainscape. For one of the best views ever, step out on the Biokovo Skywalk, a semicircular platform of clear glass extending 36ft (11m) from the cliff face. The panoramic view of the Makarska Riviera and glittering Adriatic from a height of 4028ft (1228m) is one you’ll not soon forget.
Sip your way through the region
Dalmatia has a long wine tradition, and vineyards dot the landscape up and down its coast and across its islands. (You might have tasted or at least heard of plavac mali, a robust red and one of the best-known Dalmatian varietals.) Wineries abound on the islands of Hvar, Šolta, Vis and Korčula, with each island growing its own indigenous cultivars. Other top destinations for wine lovers are the vineyard-blanketed Pelješac peninsula north-west of Dubrovnik, and Konavle Valley at Dalmatia’s southernmost tip.
My favorite thing to do in Dalmatia
I love the slow-travel novelty of car-free places – especially islands. There’s a time-travel feeling to such places, where life happens at a more human pace and getting around involves using old-fashioned body power. Lokrum, a tiny island less than a mile from Dubrovnik, is a protected nature reserve of botanical gardens, roaming peacocks and a salt lake. Zlarin is a short ferry ride from Šibenik with an area of just over 3 sq miles (7¾ sq km), just one hotel and many hiking trails. Connected to Zadar by ferry is Silba, another island that’s both car-free and, at 6 sq miles (15½ sq km), tiny. This compact place gets so many visitors in summer that even bicycles are banned in July and August.
How much money do I need for Dalmatia?
Prices in Croatia have unfortunately been steadily creeping upward in recent years, especially in the tourist magnet of Dalmatia. Things only got worse with the introduction of the euro in 2023, with tourists getting the full brunt of inflation. To add insult to injury, Croatian supermarkets and some bakery chains are infamous for unscrupulously increasing their prices during the tourist season.
Don’t expect to be able to pay for everything with a tap or swipe of your card phone, for cash is still king in Croatia, especially at restaurants and cafes. However, all supermarkets and shops do accept cards, as do most hotels.
- Double room at a hotel in high season: from €250 (US$271)
- Cappuccino at a cafe: from €2 (US$2.17)
- Aperol spritz in Dubrovnik’s old town: from €12 (US$13)
- Glass of Croatian craft beer: from €5 (US$5.42)
- Glass of Dalmatian wine: from €6 (US$6.50)
- Burek from a bakery: from €1.50 (US$1.63)
- Meal for two in Split: from €25 (US$27)
- Jadrolinija high-season ferry ticket from Split to Hvar: €25 (US$27)
- Adult high-season entry ticket to Krka National Park: €40 (US$43)
Is Croatia in Europe’s Schengen Area?
Yes. Croatia joined the border control–free Schengen Area area on January 1, 2023.
What are FKK beaches?
The letters FKK indicate a “clothing-optional” beach and are common on more remote and often rocky stretches. They stand for Freikörperkultur (or free body culture), a German naturist movement with a long history in Croatia.
Do I have to drive through Bosnia and Hercegovina to reach Dubrovnik?
No. Before the opening of the Pelješac Bridge in 2022, anyone traveling by road between Split and Dubrovnik would have to pass through the coastal enclave of Neum in Bosnia and Hercegovina. This meant showing their passports when entering Bosnia and Hercegovina, and yet again a few miles down the road when re-entering Croatia. Thanks to the new bridge, there’s now a road link that bypasses the second country.
