Jonathan Anderson Draws On the Old and New For Loewe Fall/Winter 2025
Within the walls of the 18th-century Hôtel de Maisons, Jonathan Anderson showcased Loewe in its most subdued format yet.
In lieu of the standard runway show and amidst rumors of a change in leadership, Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2025 presentation was unconventional. Instead of the usual Paris Fashion Week catwalk, Creative Director Jonathan Anderson unveiled his latest collections for both men and women in a conceptual, immersive setting. It was a fitting choice given the season’s deep dive into craft, illusion, and reinvention.
Presented at the 18th-century Hôtel de Maisons, the collection unfolded across seventeen themed rooms, where the line between past and present blurred. The space functioned as a living archive, filled with references to past Loewe shows, campaigns, and the house’s artisanal heritage. Art played a defining role, with pieces from the Loewe collection displayed alongside a collaboration with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation.
Anderson envisions the new collection as a "scrapbook" of ideas, layering Loewe’s signature codes—trompe l’oeil, exaggerated scales, and hybridized silhouettes—with the graphic sensibility of the Albers' work, according to a press release. Josef Albers’ Homage to the Square series informed the transformation of Loewe’s signature bags, from the Puzzle to the Flamenco clutch, while Anni Albers' textile explorations inspired woven coats and accessories with intricate, tactile depth. 
This season's play on construction and deconstruction means familiar wardrobe staples—shirts, knits, coats—are spliced together into unexpected hybrids. Leather takes on new forms, draped and elongated in fluid, sculptural shapes, while jersey dresses balloon into voluminous, rounded silhouettes. Fall/Winter 2025's exploration of scale challenges perception, too: Rings become tops, tricot stitches are magnified, and slicing techniques invite the eye to look beyond the surface, revealing a garment’s inner workings.
Textures and finishes heighten the sense of movement. A Prince of Wales check dissolves into metallic fringes, for example, while sheer beaded organza dresses created the illusion of transparency. Beading migrates across garments and accessories, even appearing on Toy mules, while the Ballet Runner 2.0 is now being made in plush shearling.
In true Loewe fashion, the collection defies categorization, bridging the gap between womenswear and menswear into one cohesive vision. Anderson’s exploration of old and new feels like a dialogue—between past and present, craft and modernity, the real and the surreal. 
