Rejoice! Christopher John Rogers Reinvents the (Color) Wheel

In fashion, the pressure is always on for a creative director. But it is especially intense when it comes to a creative director making their debut at an established label or making a post-hiatus return. The latter is true for Christopher John Rogers, who came back to New York Fashion Week Thursday night after five years away. His return was triumphant, and it offered something electric in addition to a refresh of the codes his customers know and love.

The show opened with a deliciously neon and red velvet-colored gown. Soon after, corseted mini dresses, tailored peplums, multi-hued trench coats, and sheer ruffled blouses staked their place on the runway among the 38-look collection. The label is known for its ingenious use of the color wheel, leading to unexpected combinations and, almost always, some form of supremely elegant dopamine dressing. In the past, this has lent itself to, for example, neon knits with turquoise and chocolate brown stripes (another Christopher John Rogers code). But the Fall/Winter 2025 collection plays with color in a new way. Powerful shades of red—maraschino cherry, merlot, salmon, and more—are a through line and constantly remixed with something unexpected.

“In a time when identity and personhood are globally challenged, the pursuit of one's own happiness and autonomy can feel like a daunting but essential endeavor,” Rogers penned in his show notes. “The works of Angela de la Cruz and Hélio Oiticica have long resonated with me as an artist, and [they] feel particularly relevant today. Their artistic explorations and reluctance towards constraint and trends continue to inspire my own practice.”

The collection laughs in the face of the beige rage of late with its chromatic explosiveness, but it offers much more than that, especially in silhouette. Most pieces are touched by a sense of ease through their construction and a sense of coziness through materials. A feeling of cheekiness is present throughout, and suiting offers something slightly more serious. Every look on the runway was styled with Christian Louboutin stilettos, which added to the color story thanks to their red soles that drew out details on garments with statement red stitching or red buttons, for example.

“We haven't been immune to the recent challenges of the industry and are grateful as a brand to be here now presenting this body of work. Exhale is a celebration of our roots—playful occasionwear imbricated with declarative workwear and daywear—and a continued effort to provide a space for our fantasies to flourish,” the designer, who studied at Savannah College of Art and Design, added.

Of course, celebrities showed out for Rogers’ return. Keke Palmer sat front and center, and industry glitterati like June Ambrose and Jenna Lyons joined the front row. With all the tailored looks on the runway, one can only wonder if and how the designer—who was born and raised in Baton Rouge, Louisiana—will wow on this year’s Met Gala red carpet, where the dress code is “Tailored for You.”

Click through the gallery below to see every look from the Christopher John Rodgers Fall/Winter 2025 collection.