See the best of Germany’s Black Forest with this 9-day itinerary
Germany's Black Forest is famed for its woodland scenery, historic towns, serene lakes and indulgent cakes. Discover more on this 9-day driving itinerary.
In the heart of Germany’s eclectic southwest, tucked against the French border, the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) may not have the celebrity status of neighboring Bavaria, but it’s a place rich in culture, history and decadent desserts.
Black Forest gateaux, Mercedes and Porsche automobiles and the cuckoo clock are just a few of the instantly recognizable symbols of this castle-dotted region, with affluent Stuttgart as its vibrant hub.
The focus for most visitors is the Black Forest itself – a sprawling mass of spruce trees, tightly knit rural communities and sparkling lakes, stretching for 160km (99 miles) from north to south. It’s a place for adventure seekers and fans of slow travel, with plenty to keep the kids entertained away from their screens on a family outdoor holiday.
This nine-day Black Forest itinerary takes you from Stuttgart through the Black Forest to the shores of Lake Constance (Bodensee). En route, you can take a spa day in Baden-Baden, eat Black Forest gateau in Triberg and hang out with the students of Freiburg in front of the city’s medieval Münster.
When is the best time to go?
The big cities of the Black Forest region are year-round destinations, but summer is the peak season for tourism in the Black Forest itself. However, the most enjoyable seasons for traveling in most of the region are late spring and fall, when temperatures are pleasant, days are long enough to explore in depth, and crowds are largely absent from the major sights. For camping in the Black Forest National Park, bookings are open from May to October. 
How to get from the airport
There are no airports inside the Black Forest, but Stuttgart Airport is the major international airport serving Baden-Württemberg state and the Black Forest region. S-Bahn trains and trams can get you from the airport to the center of Stuttgart in about 30 minutes.
For those traveling from elsewhere in Europe, fast trains connect Stuttgart to Paris and Strasbourg, arriving at Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof station in the center of the city – conveniently close to hotels and the sights.
How to get around
A car is your best option for getting around in the Black Forest, especially if you want to drive along the Black Forest High Road. The main towns are well connected by train, but the sheer size of the Black Forest and the spread out nature of its attractions mean that you’ll rarely be traveling in a straight line.
Many hotels and apartments have on-site parking, but it’s always good to check ahead. If you do choose to travel by public transport, most hotels will give you a KONUS card when you check-in, allowing free travel on the entire regional public transport network.
What to pack
Comfortable shoes or trainers are fine for city stops in the Black Forest region all year round, but walking boots or trail shoes are useful for forest hikes. In the summer, temperatures can be sweltering, so T-shirts, open shoes and shorts are the way to go. A cap or hat to keep the sun off your head is also essential.
With the abundance of lakes, rivers and water parks in southern Germany, bringing swimwear along is a good idea from late spring to early fall. Winters, however, are bitterly cold, with temperatures that fall well below 0°C (32°F). Bring a proper winter coat, sturdy boots, and a winter hat, scarf and gloves.
Day 1: Begin your trip in Stuttgart
How to spend the day: Stuttgart, the capital of Baden-Württemberg state and the Black Forest region, has a proud history of engineering and innovation. Among other things, local inventors gave the world the automobile, engine spark plugs and the pretzel.
Good places to stay include the budget-friendly a&o Stuttgart City, which offers affordable private rooms, dorms and easy access to public transport, and higher-end EmiLu Design Hotel, located right in the center, with stylish rooms, a rooftop bar and a fab breakfast buffet.
Use day one for exploring the city. Start with a coffee at Gardener’s Nosh on Calwer Strasse, then stroll along this beautiful Stuttgart thoroughfare soaking up the atmosphere. At the north end, turn to reach the city’s regal main square, the Schlossplatz, home to the 18th-century Neues Schloss (New Palace), which was restored to its original baroque glory after a public referendum in 1957 rejected turning it into a hotel.
Deemed too small to be a suitable royal residence by the young Duke Carl Eugen of Württemberg in 1746, the nearby Altes Schloss (Old Palace) now houses the Landesmuseum, where you can marvel at a 35,000-year-old flute or head underground to the royal crypt.
For art lovers, the Staatsgalerie is a must-visit. This contemporary art gallery packs a punch, with modernist works by Monet and Picasso and classic paintings dating back to the 14th century. Entry is free on Wednesdays.
The gallery is part of Stuttgart’s cultural mile on Hauptstatter Strasse, which also includes the Haus der Geschichte Baden-Württemberg (History Museum of Baden-Württemberg), and the town’s historic Stadtpalais and Rathaus.
Evening: Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy a drink at one of the city’s Besenwirtschaft – friendly pop-up wine taverns. The atmosphere at these convivial watering holes is friendly and homely, with shared tables, generous pours and live music; a broom hung out the front signifies “We’re open.”
Day 2: Step into automotive history in Stuttgart
How to spend the day: Use day two to dig into Stuttgart’s motoring history, after breakfast at Netzer, a popular corner cafe with healthy brunch bowls, plenty of outdoor seating and fantastic coffee.
Nothing is more synonymous with Stuttgart than the Porsche motor company. This luxury car manufacturer still operates from its original site in Zuffenhausen, just 15 minutes out of town by train.
Petrol-heads from around the world gather at the factory’s dedicated museum, which displays nearly 100 Porsche vehicles. There are also exhibits for kids, a racing simulator and a comprehensive audio tour. If you’ve got cash to splash, you can even rent a Porsche for the day from the ticket desk.
Across town in Bad Cannstatt, the Mercedes-Benz Museum celebrates the evolution of the “Merc” over 135 years, placing its vehicles in the context of world history. The collection is as impressive as it is vast – highlights include Gottlieb Daimler’s first internal combustion engine, a vintage Popemobile, the Mercedes-Benz once owned by Princess Diana and the world’s most expensive car – the 300 SLR Uhlenhaut Coupé.
The museum itself is an architectural marvel, with its double-helix design earning an entry in the Guinness World Records for the world’s biggest artificial tornado – a feature in the atrium designed to quickly suck out smoke in case of fire.
Evening: Located in the spacious Schlossgarten, popular Biergarten im Schlossgarten has great local meals at low prices, a kids playground and regular live music.
Day 3: Have a spa day in Baden-Baden
Go from Stuttgart to Baden-Baden: The drive from Stuttgart to the spa town of Baden-Baden takes around 1¼ hours. The charming city of Heidelberg is a popular stop along the way if you have the extra time.
For accommodation, Hotel am Markt is a small family-run hotel offering package stays in Baden-Baden's bathhouse district. If your pockets are deep, there’s no better place to stop for a luxury spa getaway than the Brenners Park Hotel.
How to spend the day: A member of Europe’s premier league of spa towns, fashionable, UNESCO-listed Baden-Baden is a swish art nouveau spa town, picturesquely located at the foot of the Black Forest’s spruce-cloaked hills. For travelers seeking wellness and rejuvenation, the historic Friedrichsbad bathhouse and the modern Caracalla Spa promise soothing soaks in curative thermal waters.
Temple-like Friedrichsbad is the more traditional of the two, with a 17-stage bathing regime that includes hot and cold thermal baths, massages, saunas and steam rooms. However, it’s all done completely naked; more prudish travelers might want to head next door to Caracalla, where indoor and outdoor pools, whirlpools and steam rooms invite you to linger a little longer.
Evening: Ater dark, try your luck at the famed Casino Baden-Baden; with its ornate ceilings, exquisite French silk-lined walls, tiered chandeliers and hushed tones. The strict dress code requires men to wear a suit, and passports must be presented at the ticket desk. In June and August, you can join a daytime guided tour in English to learn more about the casino’s secrets; participants get a free entry pass to return to play in the evening.
Day 4: Choose from two strolls in Baden-Baden
How to spend the day: Take a second day in Baden-Baden to see more of the city sights. Bookend the day with stops at Maltes Hidden Kitchen, a cafe serving coffee and cake by day, and a cozy spot for a gourmet dinner at night.
When you’re ready to explore, the green parklands of Lichtentaler Allee take you from grand hotels and museums to even grander theatres and festival halls, passing magnificent mature trees, ornate bridges and a flowing creek.
Take a stroll for 2.3km (1.4 miles) through the park to soak up the tranquillity, and stop in at the Museum Frieder Burda, a private collector’s gallery featuring more than 1000 modern artworks from the 20th and 21st centuries.
For a steeper hike, explore the ruins of the free-to-visit Altes Schloss Hohenbaden castle at the top of the city, from where you can take in sweeping views and listen to the delicate notes of the castle's 4m-tall (13ft) wind harp.
Evening: If you don’t return to Maltes Hidden Kitchen, treat yourself to dinner at one of Baden-Baden’s gourmet restaurants. Set at the top of town, Nigrum features a moody interior and impressive set menus of modern international cuisine. Alternatively, try Rizzi, a lively and glam riverside restaurant presenting modern Asian fusion cooking at its best. 
Day 5: Experience the classic Black Forest in Triberg
Go from Baden-Baden to Triberg: Drive for 1½ hours from Baden-Baden to Triberg at the heart of the Black Forest. If you have the budget, there are some stylish four-star stays in the area; Fritz Lauterbad near Freudenstadt is a sophisticated hotel with an outdoor pool and expansive forest views from all rooms, while Alpine-style Hotel Schlehdorn in tiny Altglashütten is perfect for a summer or winter escape.
How to spend the day: Triberg is a busy little tourist town where cuckoo clocks outnumber inhabitants and Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest gateaux – a dark chocolate cake with cherries and Kirsch) is a staple. Triberg’s main street is kitsch but charming, with souvenir shops overflowing with wooden ornaments and clocks.
Take a break from the tourist vibe by visiting the Triberg Waterfalls (Triberger Wasserfälle), Germany’s highest waterfall at 163m (535ft). The entry ticket gets you access to over 2km (1.2 miles) of winding boardwalks and walking paths that offer beautiful views.
Your ticket also gets you free entry to the Black Forest Museum (Schwarzwaldmuseum) and Triberg-Fantasy, a museum dedicated to Instagram selfies. After exiting the main gate, you’ll find the Greifvogelund Eulenpark, where twice-daily flight shows provide a chance to see owls and other birds of prey in action.
Just out of town, two enormous timepieces compete for the title of “World’s Biggest Cuckoo Clock,” with both chirping every half hour. Stop in at the Rombach & Haas clock store in Schonach, where a collection of ultra-modern cuckoo clocks are on display and you can see master clockmakers at work.
Evening: Eating at a mountain hut is a quintessential Black Forest experience. Consider making the trip southwest from Triberg to Höfener Hütte, a chalet-like hut with good food and impressive views that can be reached by car or on foot.
Day 6: Go for a hike or learn about Black Forest traditions
Explore the villages of the Black Forest: This is a day for experiencing more of the landscapes and traditions of the Black Forest. From your accommodation, head out for breakfast in the picturesque town of Titisee, a quaint tourist village on the shores of the lake of the same name that has some good restaurants and interesting boutiques if you want to shop for Black Forest souvenirs.
How to spend your day: If you’re feeling active, devote the day to a walk in the Black Forest. The path up to the summit of the Belchen is a hike with everything – sweeping views, photo opportunities, lush rainforest, restaurants and even a cable car halfway up if you find the going hard and want to call it quits.
The 15km (9.3-mile) circular hike to the top of Belchen involves a fairly moderate ascent for the first half, then an easy downhill stretch after you reach the summit. It’s well marked, hikeable in all weather, and you can leave your car in the car park at the bottom of the hill, or catch the regional bus to the trailhead from Münstertal or Titisee train station.
If you prefer artistic endeavors, visit the Dorotheenhütte glass factory in Wolfach, a center for glass production since the 12th century. The factory shop has a big selection of glass ornaments and Christmas decorations, and you can join a short history tour or try your hand at glass-blowing and create your very own vase or bauble.
Smoked ham is another long-standing Black Forest tradition, and you can learn about the process at Pfau Schinken in the village of Herzogsweiler. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, master butcher Frank Pfau hosts guided tours of the smokehouse and shares his secret recipes before giving you the chance to sample the house hams.
Evening: Take the opportunity to sample some of the local tipples. Visit Rothaus in Grafenhausen to learn what makes this cult beer so special, or delve into the process of making great fruit schnapps at Emil Scheibel Schwarzwald-Brennerei in Kappelrodeck. 
Day 7: Soak up the energy of Freiburg
Go from Triberg to Freiburg: From Triberg, it is an easy one-hour drive to the easygoing university city of Freiburg, close to the French border. For an elegant stay, consider the five-star Colombi Hotel in the Alstadt (Old Town), which has tastefully designed rooms full of lush materials. If you need space for the whole family, the stylishly renovated Cloud Suite Apartments are about 2.6km (1.6 miles) from the town center.
How to spend the day: This lively university town is known as the “Green City” thanks to its desirable position in the middle of the Black Forest and its sustainable credentials. Start your day by soaking up the vibe of the medieval Altstadt at the Marktplatz, where a bustling farmers’ market is held every day except Sunday under the shadow of the Freiburger Münster. Don’t miss the local cheesecake from Stefans Käsekuchen, which often sells out before noon.
Next, climb the 333 spiral steps up the Münster's tall spire; from here, you’ll be rewarded with dizzying views of the red-tiled rooftops and surrounding hills. And don’t miss paying a visit to Freiburg’s historic Rathaus, where you’ll find the coats of arms of Freiburg’s 12 sister cities at the entrance.
Evening: As the day wanes, take in the sunset from the top of the forested peak known as the Schlossberg. The walk starts at the Schwabentor city gate; it’s a gentle 30-minute hike uphill to the summit, or you can take the easy option and ride the Schlossberg cable car from downtown.
As the sun dips, the hill swarms with couples and groups of friends soaking up the last light. Join them under the chestnut trees in the beer garden, or check out the views from the 360-degree viewing tower. 
Day 8: Find a Black Forest paradise at Lake Constance (Bodensee)
Go from Freiburg to Lake Constance: The drive from Freiburg to Lake Constance (Bodensee) takes about two hours. Spend the night like a king or queen in a real castle at Schloss Hotel Wasserburg; despite the regal setting, rooms are surprisingly affordable.
How to spend the day: Tucked against the border with Switzerland and Austria, Lake Constance is Germany’s largest lake, and it’s known locally as Bodensee. Flanked by quaint villages, vineyards, wetlands and beaches, it’s a holiday playground in summer, and a major hub for water sports. The town of Konstanz only just makes it into Germany and it is split by a wide channel.
Head out onto Lake Constance to explore the privately owned island of Mainau. It was purchased by Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden in 1853, and he immediately set to work transforming it into a lush Mediterranean garden. Mainau opened to the public in the early 20th century, and the “Island of Flowers” has been delighting botanists ever since.
Tickets aren’t cheap, so make a day of it to get your money’s worth. You can access the island by ferry from Konstanz or Meersburg, or head here by bike from Konstanz. Tickets for Mainau can be purchased with your ferry ticket, online or directly at the island entrance.
Evening: After a day of sightseeing, grab dinner at Tolle Knoll, a Konstanz institution where potatoes take a starring role on the menu.
Day 9: Savor a storybook atmosphere in medieval Meersburg
Go to Meersburg: With so many lakeside towns vying for your attention, consider spending your last day exploring under-the-radar Meersburg, a patchwork of hillside vines, perky turrets, cobbled alleys and swimming spots on the eastern shore of the lake. A car ferry departs about every 15 minutes from Konstanz to Meersburg, taking around 20 minutes.
Before you board the boat, Das Voglhaus in Konstanz has plenty of cozy nooks for enjoying a coffee or slice of cake. If you feel like stopping overnight in Meersburg, three-star Hotel Zum Schiff has a prime position on the lakeshore, with good-value rooms, lake views and a good buffet breakfast.
How to spend the day: Dating back to the 7th century, Burg Meersburg takes center stage in Meersburg, with restored rooms giving insights into the town’s layered history, and a sense of what the castle looked like when it was in use.
You can also check out the Vineum, exploring Meersburg’s long history of viticulture; test your nose by sniffing sample aromas before heading to the bar downstairs to put your newly honed sense of smell to work at a wine tasting.
For some fresh air, take in the panoramic views of the lake from the raised terrace of the Neues Schloss, then meander down to the lakeside promenade. Here you’ll find boats for hire, swimming lidos, the satirical Magische Säule (Magic Column) sculpture and inviting Weinstube (wine taverns), where you can celebrate the completion of this Black Forest itinerary.
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest guidebook from June 2024.
