A first-time guide to Moldova
Tiny Moldova is one of the least-visited countries in a world, yet offers sights you won't find anywhere else.
Did someone say, “off the beaten track”? In Europe, tiny Moldova, sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine in a far corner of Eastern Europe, is one of the least-visited countries in the world yet offers sights you won’t find anywhere else. How about vast underground wine cellars that hold millions of bottles of wine and run to hundreds of kilometers in length? Or a semi-autonomous region, Transnistria, that somehow never got the memo about the fall of communism? Stroll the avenues of that region’s largest city, Tiraspol, amid hammers and sickles and busts of Lenin that feel straight out of the history books.
Moldova, of course, is more than a string of curiosities. It’s an emerging democracy in a difficult European neighborhood, where populations of ethnic Moldovan (Romanian) and Russian speakers peacefully coexist to forge a unique cultural mix. Moldova’s lively capital city, Chișinău, with its cafes, clubs, parks and museums, shows off this vibrancy. Outside the cities, village life carries on seemingly unfazed by modern developments, and the country's wine is among the best in Europe.
When should I go to Moldova?
Time your visit for spring (April to June) or autumn (September to October); both offer sunny days and comfortably warm (though not too hot) daytime temperatures. During Orthodox Easter (usually in April) fiery colors erupt around the country in the forms of flowers and painted eggs. October features wine festivals to celebrate the recent grape harvest. The biggest takes place the first weekend of October in central Chișinău. Avoid high summer (July to August), when temps can occasionally climb past 40°C (104°F). During winter (November to March), the cold and snow can make getting around difficult.
How much time should I spend in Moldova?
Budget at least two days to take in Chișinău’s parks and museums. Depending on your interests, tack on a couple more days to explore the extensive wine cellars at Mileștii Mici or Cricova and the unique, throwback sights of Transnistria. Round out a fuller exploration with a peek in at Orheiul Vechi’s mysterious cave monastery and an overnight at a rural homestay.
Is it easy to get in and around Moldova?
Several airlines offer direct flights from major European cities to Chișinău Airport, situated 13km (8 miles) from the center. From the airport, trolleybus 30 or taxis whisk you into the city proper in under 30 minutes. There are reliable international bus services from large Romanian cities, like Bucharest and Iași. An overnight sleeper train runs daily to and from Bucharest. Chișinău itself is relatively compact and walkable.
Buses and maxi taxis form the transportation backbone for getting around Moldova. Services are frequent and cheap, but timetables are confusing and may not be available in English. To save time, consider booking guided excursions, transportation included, to points outside of Chișinău. If you’re driving your own car, roads are decent (watch for occasional potholes) and well-signposted.
Top things to do in Moldova
Stroll Chișinău’s parks and visit the museums
Central Chişinău is a jumble of Soviet-era high-rises that shoot up in and around splendid 19th- and early-20th-century buildings. The saving grace is a series of sweeping central parks. The Grădina Publică Ştefan cel Mare şi Sfînt is named for national hero Ştefan cel Mare, a fearless prince who defended the borders of the Moldavian principality from the Ottomans more than five centuries ago. His statue is in the southeast corner of the park. Not far away, Chişinău’s smaller rendition of the Arc de Triomphe marks the entrance to the Parcul Catedralei. Here, you’ll find the 19th-century Nativity of Christ Metropolitan Cathedral, with its impressive bell tower.
Don’t miss the museums. The best is the grand National Archaeology & History Museum, which documents two millennia of Moldovan history with thousands of artefacts, including ancient pottery, Golden Horde coins, Soviet-era weaponry and a huge WWII diorama. The nearby National Art Museum features galleries of contemporary and folk art and icons. The curious Pushkin Museum tells the story of when Russia’s national poet Alexander Pushkin (1799–1837) was banished here from 1820 to 1823. See the tiny cottage, filled with original furnishings and personal items, where he lived.
Step back in time in Transnistria
The semi-autonomous region of Transnistria (known locally as "Pridnestrovie") is one of the world's oddest political entities. The result of a civil war in the early 1990s, it’s nominally part of Moldova, yet has its own government, border and currency. These days the frontier is peaceful and day-trippers from Chișinău to the regional capital Tiraspol are treated to what feels like a fossilized piece of the former Soviet Union. There are few traditional sights. Instead, the thrill is to stroll the city’s wide, orderly avenues and take in the old-school vibe. This trip is best done as a guided tour. Try PMR Tours or Tiras Tours, and don’t forget to take your passport.
Explore an ancient cave monastery at Orheiul Vechi
The unforgettable Orheiul Vechi Monastery complex is carved into a massive limestone cliff in a wild, rocky, remote spot, south of Orhei, about 60km (36 miles) northeast of Chișinău. The monastery was created by Orthodox monks in the 13th century. Around 30 years ago, a handful of monks returned to the site in order to restore it. The entrance to the monastery stands on a high cliff above the Răut River and getting there involves a breathtaking, photogenic climb out above the river. Pair a trip with an overnight stay at a picturesque guesthouse, such as the nearby Eco Resort Butuceni.
Probe vast underground wine cellars at Mileștii Mici or Cricova
Two of the world’s largest wine cellars lie within an easy drive of Chişinău. Both offer guided coach or car tours of the caverns, in-cave restaurants and the opportunity to gawk at literally hundreds of kilometers of underground tunnels dedicated to storing wine. Mileştii Mici is the larger of the two, with 200km (120 miles) of tunnels carved through a limestone mine, while Cricova, arguably, wins on charm (and has better wine, in our opinion). Try to arrive in the morning and pair a visit with lunch in a faux-medieval, underground dining room. You’ll need private transport to get to both, so it’s best to book a tour, transportation included, from Chişinău. Reputable operators include Winetours Moldova and Hi Moldova.
My favorite thing to do in Moldova
Indulge in a tasting (and overnight stay) at a local winery
I love getting lost in the massive cellars at Mileștii Mici or Cricova (and enjoying a glass or two of Cricova’s signature sparkling red), but for me the essence of Moldovan wines is better found at the country’s smaller wineries, where winemakers turn out both whites and reds – often crafted from local varietals and heritage grapes – that vie with the best of the best at world competitions. Many wineries offer tastings and overnights, usually amid impossibly bucolic settings. My favorites include Chateau Purcari, Castel Mimi and Chateau Vartely.
How much money do I need for Moldova?
Average wages in Moldova are some of the lowest in Europe. Consequently, the prices of everyday items like meals, coffee and wine are modest by European standards. Hotel prices are closer to continental norms but still good value. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted. ATMs are generally safe, but only withdraw as much cash as you’ll need (converting lei back to your home currency is next to impossible outside of Moldova). Sample prices in Moldovan lei:
- Double room at a top end hotel in Chișinău: 2500 lei (US$136)
- Double room at a budget hotel: 800 lei (US$44)
- Glass of (good) domestic wine at a bar or restaurant: from 60 lei (US$3.20)
- Coffee at a trendy Chișinău cafe: from 50 lei (US$2.72)
- Lunch in Chișinău (two courses without drinks): from 150 lei (US$8.18)
- Dinner out (three courses without drinks): from 250 lei (US$13.63)
- Museum entry (adult): 50 lei (US$2.72)
- Taxi from Chișinău airport to the center: around 150 lei (US$8.18)
Keep up with the latest events before travel
At the time of writing, Russia’s war in neighboring Ukraine is ongoing. While Moldova remains safely removed from the fighting and the borders are open, it’s always a good idea to check the current situation before embarking on your trip.
Be respectful of political and ethnic differences
Moldovan society is built on a patchwork of different ethnic and linguistic identities. Exercise discretion when voicing your own opinions about potentially divisive topics, such as the role of Russia, the war in Ukraine, European politics, and many others. It’s usually best to keep your views to yourself.
Watch for photo restrictions
Pay attention to photo restrictions in Transnistria, especially in Tiraspol. Don’t take photos of military installations or official buildings – that’s sure to merit a rebuke (and possible fine) from the local police.
