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A first-time guide to San Luis Obispo, California
Along California’s Central Coast, San Luis Obispo combines history with nature, fine food and wine, glorious sunsets and more.
Almost equidistant from Los Angeles and San Francisco, San Luis Obispo was considered the ideal location for building the world’s first motel in 1925. A century later, it’s still a splendid place to stop and spend a few days.
Tucked in behind California’s Santa Lucia Mountains, SLO (as locals call it) is a sun-kissed haven of quality wineries, fresh food, outdoor activities and Golden State history. And beyond the lovely town of SLO itself, it’s worth exploring the rest of San Luis Obispo County, too. Hemmed in by widescreen Big Sur to the north and the glamor of Santa Barbara to the south, this corner of the Central Coast rewards slow exploration. The majestic Pacific, a string of glorious beach towns and the bizarre beauty of Hearst Castle are all under an hour from downtown SLO.
Whether you plan on staying in a hotel, motel, campervan or any other digs, here are some of the best things to do in San Luis Obispo.
When should I go to San Luis Obispo?
California’s year-round sun makes SLO a viable destination at any time. Winter evenings can get chilly, it’s true – but daytime temperatures remain pleasant, and there are far fewer crowds at popular coastal hot spots like Cayucos.
Since summers can get very hot, we’d say the shoulder seasons are the best time to visit. Fall in particular brings lovely temperatures and a slew of festivals like the Autumn Soirée, with the wine harvest taking center stage.
How much time should I spend in San Luis Obispo?
Look to spend one week in SLO – and don’t limit that to the city alone. Two days is more than enough time to explore downtown’s attractions, though you might want to return to town each evening to check out its many wine bars and restaurants.
Rent a car and spend three or four days exploring the coast and other regional corners, from rolling wineries to quaint beach towns. 
Is it easy to get in and around San Luis Obispo?
San Luis Obispo County Regional Airport (SBP) has flights to San Francisco and Los Angeles alongside other large hubs like Denver, Phoenix, Dallas and Seattle. It’s a small airport that’s wonderfully close to the city – just a 10-minute taxi ride, or 30 minutes by public transit.
If you’re driving, then Hwys 101 and 1 both pass through SLO, either north from Los Angeles or south from San Francisco. And unusually, for so small a city, Amtrak trains serve SLO: the Coast Starlight between Seattle and Los Angeles stops once per day in each direction.
Downtown SLO is compact, and everything is conveniently walkable from any hotel. A car is essential for exploring the surrounding area, though, and most of the main rental centers are clustered at the airport. We’d avoid driving downtown altogether.
Top things to do in San Luis Obispo
Find great food at the market and beyond
Since SLO sits between vineyards, the world’s biggest ocean and the Central Valley’s produce nirvana, it makes sense that it’s a hub of gastronomy. Start with the Downtown SLO Farmers’ Market, taking place beneath festooned lights on Higuera St every Thursday night between 6pm and 9pm. Across five blocks, over 100 vendors serve up fantastic street food, from BBQ tri-tip beef to fresh pastries.
Beyond the market, don’t miss Novo’s magical backyard terrace, with canopied trees and a peaceful stream running by below (and a very eclectic menu). Nate’s on Marsh serves up more classic American fare, using quality local ingredients.
Soak up SLO’s art scene
SLO has a strong arts scene, and the San Luis Obispo Museum of Art (SLOMA) is a fine place to start sampling it. The permanent collection focuses on diverse visual arts from artists around the Central Coast; among its many events, First Fridays is a jovial evening of art, music and wine on the first Friday of the month.
Just Looking Gallery on Higuera St showcases brightly colored art deco and postmodern work, while Hands Gallery is a mom-and-daughter-run store promoting work by local artists and a host of other arts and crafts. Whether the nearby Bubblegum Alley can be considered “art” is in the eye of the beholder…but it’s a popular if rather bizarre attraction.
Stay in a motel (and see the original one, too)
The Motel Inn is a milestone in American culture, opening as the world’s first motel in 1925 and ushering in a new era of travel. Though it closed in 1991, the building still exists on SLO’s outskirts, and its Spanish mission architecture, complete with a bell tower, is worth a quick visit.
A century later, boutique motels are making a comeback. Some fine examples include the upmarket kitsch River Lodge Motel in Paso Robles, and the breezy Pacific Motel in Cayucos. For something a little gaudier, consider staying at SLO’s famously pink-splashed Madonna Inn.
Hit the great outdoors
Recognizable by their lumpy (and sometimes mist-shrouded) peaks, the Nine Sisters Mountains near San Luis Obispo are perfect for hiking. The tranquil 6¼km (4-mile) Cerro San Luis Obispo Trail is a popular route near the city, while more-seasoned hikers might prefer the challenging 5¼km (3¼-mile) Bishop Peak Trail. The highest point of the Nine Sisters, the summit provides some sublime views.
Over on the coast, Central Coast Outdoors runs fun and informative kayak tours all around the Morro Bay estuary. And since this estuary is sheltered from the choppy seas, paddling is smooth, and seals, sea otters and cormorants can be seen sharing the water. There’s also a stop at the fascinating Grassy Bar Oyster Company oyster farm.
If surfing is your thing, beautiful Cayucos is a wonderful spot, and the Cayucos Surf School is a good place to get started.
Sample the region’s varietals at its wineries
Paso Robles is around a 20-minute drive north of San Luis Obispo – and to say wine is taken seriously here would be an understatement. The city’s small downtown is a warren of tasting rooms and wine bars, with Thomas Hill Organics and Serial Wines among the finest.
Wine lovers will find true joy in the bucolic byways spidering out of the city, where the wineries themselves seem to appear every half a mile. Halter Ranch’s rolling hills look like England on a summer’s day, and its vines produce some splendid Bordeaux-style blends. What truly sets Hatler apart are its unique tours, either rumbling around the 315-acre estate in a Land Rover Defender or (even better) hopping on one of the custom-built trains that run along the narrow-gauge railroad cutting through the vineyards. Exception: The parser function of type "canto_diptych" is not defined. 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Lose yourself in Hearst Castle’s over-the-top grandeur
Less than an hour from San Luis Obispo, Hearst Castle is an opulent hilltop estate built by publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst between 1919 and 1947. It’s a staggeringly garish place – a monument to one very rich man’s vision (Hearst called it La Cuesta Encantada – “the Enchanted Hill”), and a wild blend of architectural styles and details. Orange groves and palms imported from the Canary Islands flank the cathedral-like home built in the Mediterranean Revival style, whose elements take inspiration from ancient Rome and the Renaissance.
Stars of Hollywood’s Golden Age, like Charlie Chaplin, Cary Grant and Marlene Dietrich, were regulars here, while other famous guests included the likes of Winston Churchill, Walt Disney and Charles Lindbergh. Following a somewhat hairy bus ride winding up into the mountain from the visitor center, the 60-minute tour is immensely detailed, and the guides offer great insight into Hearst’s life and the castle itself.
Learn about SLO’s long history
The Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa is a unique building with a unique past. Founded in 1772 by Spanish missionaries, the mission church was built with the help of the local Chumash (who have lived here since time immemorial) and has lasted through such seismic changes as the Mexican War of Independence and the granting of statehood to California.
These days, it serves as a museum, gift shop and (at the pretty chapel and peaceful gardens outside) place for contemplation. Take the 1:15pm docent-led tour (every day; 2pm on Sundays) for a much deeper understanding. 
My favorite thing to do in San Luis Obispo
Savvy travelers call Cayucos “the last great California beach town.”
That’s a rather grand statement – but when I saw the sun go down from a small wooden viewing deck above the beach, they could have called the town anything they liked.
Strolling through Cayucos’ charming streets, cycling along the old wooden pier and eating clam chowder at no-frills spots like Duckie’s Chowder House are all pleasant, but nothing compares to that breathtaking sunset. As its fading glow sank beneath the vast Pacific that evening, it was as if the sky was painted in brushstrokes of vivid orange and hazy gold. To my left, sea spray misted up Morro Bay’s distant shore, and the clouds above were a soft shade of pink.
A nearby man asked if I’d seen the green flash when the sun dipped beneath the horizon. I’d never heard of the phenomenon but was now curious. Next time I’d look for it, I said. I’d been too engrossed by this majestic slice of SLO County coast to notice.
How much money do I need for San Luis Obispo?
- Hostel room: $40
- Basic room for two: $200
- Public transport ticket (day pass): $3.25
- Coffee: $4
- Sandwich: $6
- Dinner for two: $80
- Beer/pint at the bar: $7
Where should I stay in San Luis Obispo?
Set inside a building built in 1922, the Granada Hotel & Bistro is a cool and compact 17-room hotel in downtown SLO. Graced by a low-lit lobby and strewn with art across two floors, the Granada is a chic base for exploring downtown. Each room is a little different, and the speakeasy-style bar (which opens at 6pm) is a great place to kick off the evening.
Parking in the cramped lot behind the building can be a little tricky, but there are plenty of other options nearby. A nice touch are the bikes available for guests to rent: SLO is a perfect size for cycling.
