Bodaega in Oaxaca, Mexico

Behind the classically Oaxacan electric-blue façade of Bodaega lies a little Nordic world of blond wood, earth walls, and a display of flaky pastries and burnished sourdough loaves. Yet the owner, Oaxacan chef Rafael Villalobos who spent three years studying baking in Copenhagen and opened Bodaega two years ago, wasn’t interested in yet another hipster bakery knocking off those high-hydration Tartine or Hart Bageri loaves. For one thing, this is the first Oaxacan panaderías to say no to industrial wheat and instead work with grains (including small batches of rye) grown and harvested exclusively in la Mixteca region in the state of Oaxaca. There’s also much creativity in how Vilalobos fuses traditions. His sweet breads might marry a Scandinavian cardamom bun with the orange-water scented Mexican pan de muerto. A flaky chai cruffin comes filled with a cream of explosively flavorful local guavas. A spandauer is topped with passionfruit custard and a tropical compote of mango and xoconostle (prickly pear). The coffee here is a monthly rotation of blends from small local producers, the soft drinks include house-fermented fruit and honey libations, and the communal table is a great place to meet Oaxacan creatives.

Mar 24, 2025 - 22:04

Rafael Villalobos relies on locally harvested grains for his superlative pastries.

Behind the classically Oaxacan electric-blue façade of Bodaega lies a little Nordic world of blond wood, earth walls, and a display of flaky pastries and burnished sourdough loaves. Yet the owner, Oaxacan chef Rafael Villalobos who spent three years studying baking in Copenhagen and opened Bodaega two years ago, wasn’t interested in yet another hipster bakery knocking off those high-hydration Tartine or Hart Bageri loaves.

For one thing, this is the first Oaxacan panaderías to say no to industrial wheat and instead work with grains (including small batches of rye) grown and harvested exclusively in la Mixteca region in the state of Oaxaca.

There’s also much creativity in how Vilalobos fuses traditions. His sweet breads might marry a Scandinavian cardamom bun with the orange-water scented Mexican pan de muerto. A flaky chai cruffin comes filled with a cream of explosively flavorful local guavas. A spandauer is topped with passionfruit custard and a tropical compote of mango and xoconostle (prickly pear). The coffee here is a monthly rotation of blends from small local producers, the soft drinks include house-fermented fruit and honey libations, and the communal table is a great place to meet Oaxacan creatives.