L'HISTOIRE: Patrick Kelly's Sophisticated, Yet Provocative Fall/Winter 1989 Show

L’HISTOIRE explores fashion history moments you should know, from what actors wore on a red carpet to celebrities who made cameos on the runway. Some are unsung, and some are better known. Each is part of the fabric of today’s fashion world, be it barrier breakers or culture makers.

The upcoming menswear-focused 2025 Met Gala theme has many reflecting on influential Black male creatives in the fashion scene. Naturally the concept of Black dandyism made many think of Harlem’s own Dapper Dan and late fashion editor André Leon Talley. But you simply can’t discuss Black innovators without Patrick Kelly in the conversation. The American designer was known for expressing his chic-yet-playful vision, which was on full display during his Fall/Winter 1989 show.

The runway pulsated with charisma from the start. Models—walking both in pairs and solo—strutted with attitude and flair, each more audacious than the last. A slew of them paraded down the runway in sharply tailored ensembles. Others were draped in dramatic furs or decked out in flamboyant prints. Kelly kicked things up a notch with lace detail pieces and pantless looks that were sultry, yet still elegant. One striking redhead even channeled Jessica Rabbit in a high-slit scarlet gown and opera gloves. But Kelly’s purpose in his work went deeper than simply flashy looks.

The designer's work centered Blackness and Black joy at its core, weaving celebration and reclamation. As a Black, queer man, Kelly sought to uplift the Black community—not just by referencing Black history in his work, but by spotlighting Black talent. He casted supermodels Naomi Campbell and Iman at a time when Black models were routinely overlooked. Kelly strategically made powerful statements about visibility, pride, and beauty, making his runways a space for affirmation and resistance. 

During the show, an Eiffel Tower motif could be seen more than once—and this wasn’t a coincidence. The Mississippi native seemingly utilized the emblem to signify his Parisian journey, which was a trailblazing one. He first moved to the City of Lights in 1979 and began selling his designs at trendy boutiques, which quickly became a hit. By 1988, Kelly had released 10 womenswear collections under his label—qualifying him to be accepted into the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. He was the first American and Black designer to be accepted. 

Patrick Kelly’s legacy continues today through the joyful and intentional nods to Black culture. Thirty-five years after his passing, his influence remains undeniable. None other than Beyoncé is a fan, too. The 35-time Grammy winner wore one of his signature button dresses to Kelly Rowland’s birthday party in February. Many of his pieces have also been on view at museum exhibitions around the world. With the 2025 Met Gala around the corner, one can’t help but wonder if an attendee will pay tribute to Kelly.