Master the '90s Updo with Tips From Rihanna’s Hair Stylist, Yusef Williams

The '90s were unmatched, with no shortage of enviable fashion and beauty trends. But let's focus on the latter: From hair to makeup to nails, every detail was seamlessly executed, embracing audacity without restraint. Today's trends lean toward a similarly understated aesthetic, and this season nostalgia is in full swing with the return of the '90s updo. Some of the most beloved ‘90s stars from Pamela Anderson to Gwyneth Paltrow and Halle Berry donned the timeless hairstyle back in the day, and it's having quite the comeback.

Tyla shutdown the red carpet at the CFDA Fashion Awards last month while wearing a vintage Tom Ford for Gucci look from Spring/Summer 1996. The daring archive ensemble wasn’t the only part of the look that turned heads: the South African singer's perfectly tousled updo was another point of focus. It was reminiscent of Rihanna's recent style while attending a Moncler show in Shanghai alongside her beau A$AP Rocky. What do these two have in common? Celebrity hairstylist, Yusef Williams.

“When it came to Tyla’s CFDA look, we were heavily inspired by the timeless elegance and bold glamour of the ‘90s,” the Fenty Hair Global Stylist tells L’OFFICIEL. “Tyla and I had a lot of conversations about the era—specifically referencing iconic supermodels like Tyra Banks. There was this one photo of Tyra that stuck in our minds.” Amplified further by the buzz surrounding the return of the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, the style captured the magic of the singer's performance at the buzzy runway's return.

This look wasn’t just about paying homage to the era’s icons, but channeling the essence of the decade’s aesthetics. “The ‘90s Tom Ford for Gucci aesthetic also played a huge role,” Williams adds. “That era was about unapologetic sensuality and sophistication, and we wanted to reflect that through her hair.” The result? A sculpted, yet effortless updo—tying together the allure of the pivotal time while heralding its resurgence today.

Reflecting on the cyclical nature of beauty trends, Williams believes "beauty styles always find a way to repeat themselves," and the '90s are no exception. He believes the return of adjacent trends from the era to be inevitable, adding that it’s only a matter of "when and how" at this point. You’ll find French rolls, top knots, and pinups on his moodboard, which he describes as “classic styles whose names we could never change.” But now, he quite enjoys the modern experimentation of it all when it comes to the texture, volume, and creative detailing.

To get the 90s-inspired updo look, Williams advises against rushing the process, in favor of a methodical yet flexible approach of working in sections to sidestep those pitfalls. “A common mistake is trying to do it all in one swoop. Always work in three sections, starting with your foundation first. A solid foundation is key for any hairstyle,” he explains. Once the base is set, the second section focuses on shaping and pinning to build structure, followed by the third section, which adds the finishing touches for a polished look.

To create the look, Williams always starts with a solid base. "I used the Protective Type 5-in-1 Heat Protectant Styling Cream by Fenty Hair to protect the hair while styling and for frizz control," he explains. From there, he sections off the top-center of the hair to craft different shapes that can be incorporated into a French roll. The sides and back are twisted and secured with large hairpins, while the hairline is kept sleek with Thickening Edge Control Gel. "It’s perfect for that smooth, clean finish," Williams adds, noting that he uses the Side Stick for precision. Whether locking the hair in place or adding creative edge designs, this ensures every detail in the updo is flawless.

A key technique of his is foregoing the need for perfection and surrendering into that effortlessness feeling that epitomizes this iconic style. “Lean into the messy—you want that ‘messy’ look to be effortless, so I never start with a true direction,” he says. “It comes together organically based on how the hair is falling.” His go-to tools to achieve this include a big barrel curling iron and large hair pins. (Williams, who was appointed as a Fenty Hair Global Stylist in September, naturally uses the line's products most.)

If you’re eager to try this style, but think it won’t last, fear not: Williams says the key to making your '90s updo last all night lies in the details, namely meticulous pin placement and the liberal use of hairspray for a firm hold. For sleek edges and making sure baby hair stay put, he swears by an edge control gel, which he calls “a game-changer.” The right products and techniques make all the difference in the quest for that flawless finish, channeling the timeless and now-trending hairstyle that looks good from night to day.

"The '90s were a defining era of femininity and bold self-expression for women; qualities that remain as timeless as they are relevant," Williams says on why the style has managed to transcend decades. He’s quite fond of '90s braids, voluminous curls, and edgy top knots too. This is evident in the work he does with his high-profile clientele.

“I love being a part of the beauty community today because my clients are so self-expressive and creative. They’re fearless. Rihanna being one of them—we’ve done every hairstyle, color, and cut, it feels like, and we’re always continuing to push the boundaries and take inspiration from past eras.”

Often the inspiration starts within, and Williams encourages tapping into your roots—quite literally. "It’s always a great idea to look through old family photos to see the hairstyles your mom and aunts were wearing that can be reinvented," he says, offering tips on hairstyle inspiration. “Don’t be afraid to be your own trendsetter—personal inspiration is where the best ideas come from.”